It looks like there is just a puck in there instead of the actual block that is supposed to be there.
the new ones purchased are identical to old ones.
12.7 Series 60- Issues after rebuild
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by JoeyJunk, Aug 8, 2022.
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D.Tibbitt, Rideandrepair and Dave_in_AZ Thank this. -
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It gets better with RPM, but still noticeable when running down roadBean Jr. and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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How can you tell that's out of phase? I have always had a drives line vibration, and lately it's a lot worse, I'm going to remove the shafts have all new joints ts and hanger bearing and balanced. What is the procedure for making sure it's in phase?JoeyJunk, rollin coal and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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That's not new. In fact it's wasted.
And it only has one bolt in it.
When I did like the back 1/3 inframe on Casper, they replaced the rear mounts while it was all apart.
To replace them they have to trash several bolts on both sides of the rear mounts of the steer leaf springs.
Anyone could easily see the shiny new bolts all around.austinmike, Feedman, Siinman and 3 others Thank this. -
That pic was of the one they took out. Sorry if I didn’t specify. I’m hot sweaty and angry when I posted that. Got a load of Pepsi. You can figure out what happened. Got a mess.
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Dude where’s my motor mounts? That’s just wrong. Looks like you found the problem though. Make sure they use a hoist, if no hoist, oil pan needs to come off, and engine jacked using Wood blocks. Jacking anywhere else risks damaging something. The original bolts for brackets to engine have shallow heads on them. They’re shallow for a reason, if not shallow, the through mount bolts won’t clear, and won’t go in. Might want to make sure the proper shallow head bolts are already there. So they don’t waste anymore time. What about the 2 front mounts? Those are an easy swap. Either way, watch your fingers. Take it back. Don’t try at home, or in a Truckstop parking lot at midnight. Lol. I know a Guy who changed his using a jack on the trans. Almost lost his finger, when it slipped. Split it open like a crushed grape. Next time I, or he took the oil pan off. Lol.
RubyEagle, austinmike, Bean Jr. and 4 others Thank this. -
Fronts were replaced as well. But who knows if they are correct. They look correct. I gave them a box of containing motor mounts, cab mounts and all NEW nuts and bolts. Nothing was bagged or labeled from Freightliner but thats not an excuse to install whatever, wherever. Match up the old to the new. My 2 year old could understand that.Rideandrepair, stuckinthemud and InTooDeep Thank this.
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So many homicidal thoughts at this point. But I like my freedom so I will just cuss at them instead. LOL
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It's one of those things where if I could show you it would take me about 2 minutes to show what it is and explain it. But typing it out on the internet and trying to show from pics is gonna be a long shot. Not trying to be a smart alleck but google is your friend. Once you get it you'll see what's wrong with that pic like I'm pretty sure @wore out @gentleroger and some of these other guys that just take something like that for being granted or know what they're looking at see.
I'll try to put a post together explaining later tonight for anyone searching the web for drive line vibrationand a potential fix. It's an easy thing to check, just basically visually, and relatively easy to fix - you just gotta knock some u-joints out and pop a yoke off some splines and reset it. No special tools required. I eyeballed mine back in phase... I think you could probably be off 1 spline or maybe 2 and still be in balance, but if it aint in phase it aint gonna be balanced for sure...
And 99.9% of people who spend money to have driveshafts rebalanced are wasting money on something that doesn't need doing. Or getting shystered and told "yeah we rebalanced them" when all that was done was a yoke pulled off and put back on the splines correctly.Last edited: Aug 9, 2022
RubyEagle, austinmike, Elroythekid and 5 others Thank this. -
This kind of explains phasing
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