12V A/C anyone?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Lockport, Apr 30, 2023.

  1. Lockport

    Lockport Light Load Member

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    Cool. Yeah, almost identical on the compressor end. I'm opting to go high up the back wall to get out of the heat too.

    How is it on your batteries?
     
    Siinman Thanks this.
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  3. Siinman

    Siinman Road Train Member

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    If MDF you can put a 1/4-20 Zert and use 1/4-20 screw with loctite and would hold. Or just do a through bolt .
     
    Lockport Thanks this.
  4. skallagrime

    skallagrime Road Train Member

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    It seems to have 0 parasitic draw, but because i plan on a lifepo battery bank and dont have an isolated starter battery, i have not yet tested its full draw with truck off yet. On a 3 battery setup, it does 45 minutes no problem

    I did rest the outdoor unit on the horizontal bar behind the sleeper and just made up some diy ubolts but also put some rubber padding on that.

    It does okay coolingwise, its in a tiny t800 and with truck running i tend to use it as my sole ac on the assumption that alternater parasitic draw is less of a hp theif than the ac, plus, its an old kw with the old ac box, so it wouldnt be doing much anyway
     
    Vitkouski Thanks this.
  5. Lockport

    Lockport Light Load Member

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    Lockport, MB, CAN
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    You've yet to run your evaporation lines.

    I have a Carrier APU but the 110V is $2,000 just in parts and the A/C is another $2,000 and then there's shop charges to get to the professionals to install.

    I can get it to run just to keep the main engine warm and to recharge batteries with its 65A alternator. I'm counting on that being enough to keep the batteries up to the task. If not, I have an old APU alt I'll get rewound to 85A. From what I've read, I'm confident one of both configurations will be sufficient.
     
  6. Lockport

    Lockport Light Load Member

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    Lockport, MB, CAN
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    You mean a rivet nut? That's a good idea. I'll certainly consider that. A through bolt means I've gotta disassemble the interior. And as I'd mentioned, I'd have to remove the MDF cupboards and it's the idea of moving them and then putting them back that concerns me. But if I drill holes just deep enough from the exterior, it's more of an "out of sight, out of mind scenario" . Should hold with 4 ¼x20 down each side. I could even put some 3M two sided tape around the back. Or a general use JB Weld.
    Thanks

    Added: Will need to use an Almac aluminum rivet nut to deal with strength issue of compatible metals.
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2023
    Siinman Thanks this.
  7. Siinman

    Siinman Road Train Member

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    I like adding the tape and would give it a little extra insurance. Seems to be an easy install doing it that way.
     
  8. skallagrime

    skallagrime Road Train Member

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    That pic was from installation, i definitely ran the lines and charged it since then, if we had teleportable refrigerant, pretty sure that would open up a lot of alternate ways of cooling, not to mention making transportation companies somewhat obsolete.
     
    Siinman Thanks this.
  9. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Just want to make sure you are not using the LiFePo batteries for the truck.

    The real problem with the truck as a charger, you need to use a proper charger with these batteries otherwise they never get charged.

    I have a no sun day charger someone built for LiFePo batteries, it consists of a mppt solar charger and a 100 amp 24-volt alternator setup for 28 volts coupled to a 10 hp engine. It works well to charge up my small workshop bank, which is 24 volt.
     
    skallagrime and Siinman Thank this.
  10. skallagrime

    skallagrime Road Train Member

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    Yeah, the thought is a dc to dc charger between truck batteries and lifepo
     
    RedForeman Thanks this.
  11. Lockport

    Lockport Light Load Member

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    20230715_153508.jpg 20230715_153623.jpg 20230719_162132.jpg Finally did my install. As the cap of the truck was fiberglass, installing on the back wall was out of the question. The suggestion of running two aluminum angles across the fairings was proposed but in the end I decided to put the compressor assembly on an isolation pad with four heavy bolts into the top of the chain cabinet. I had 6m refrigerant lines which were perfect to go down, under the cab, and up into the sleeper's cupboards. As I wasn't installing the internal unit on the back wall but above the passenger side cupboards this proved efficient. I ran my powerlines straight down the chain rack and into the APU assembly where I tapped into the starters power lines. The controller harness I had to lengthen. It's quite gentle on the batteries but until I get the APU starting again to charge the batteries, I find I have to start the truck at least once a night and run it for an hour.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2023
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