Well, A bit confused at my clutch.. 13 speed Eaton Fuller.
I bought a Volvo with a 13 speed to use as a RV hauler from a retiring trucker. It is not registered commercial anymore.
Last fall I had it at the volvo dealer for a quick maintenance adjustment when they were doing the computer reprogramming.. They said the clutch was seized and wouldn't adjust it.
Clutch has about 300k miles on it but from eastern Canada. It has an ONE piece brake.
Second shop had no problem adjusting it the best they could (due to the brake wear) and said I needed a new brake as my old one is missing a pad on one side and needs to be changed asap before it wears the nose cone. - They said if needed, they could put a thicker brake in. They couldn't get it into the shop at that time before I was leaving the state.
Third shop, I went to get the brake changed and they said the clutch was gone and it would be a waste to put a new brake on as it would only last a few uses..
Took the truck back to the place I am staying at and parked it until I need to make the trip home (2000 miles) this upcoming Thursday.
I priced the replacement and can get it replaced at a truck shop I use at home and have a good relationship with for about $800 cheaper then locally here.
My plans were to stop at KYClutch on the way home and pick up a rebuilt clutch/bearing/2 part brake then get it installed at home. (I am leaving Kansas and heading up to Atlantic Canada)
I decided to have a look at it today and I can't really see the clutch friction disks, but I do see the clutch brake. It has the friction pads on the side facing the clutch/throw out bearing and couldn't see the other side, I did feel and look at the nose cone, I don't see any wear on it. (Clutch looks like it is adjusted to the 1/2" spec)
I have not felt the clutch slip at all at any time driving, the reason I originally had it checked out was that sometimes it lightly grinds when first putting it into gear, but not always and that I wasn't sure when it had been adjusted last. (Since it was there getting the speed reprogrammed, I thought I may as well get it adjusted for maintenance). The trailer is hauls only now is 15k lbs, nothing heavier.
It has the hydraulic clutch and a few of the places were talking about how much of a pain it is due to the opening, so I am wondering if they just didn't want to deal with the mess of cutting it off? lol
Question is:
Since I have not ever felt the clutch slip, should I bother replacing it? I agree I do need a clutch brake, but unsure about what the third shop meant by the brake would only last a few times if replaced.? If the clutch was gone, wouldn't it would start slipping when accelerating?
I put about 5,000-10,000 miles on it a year.
Trying to debate if I should get the rebuilt clutch on the way home and by the time I install it, I could be up to about $1500-2k, vs $200 for a brake cutoff/install. Hate to bother replacing the clutch if there is plenty more life in it especially for the amount we drive it.
Thanks
Jason
13 speed clutch help. What to do?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by peifamily, Apr 15, 2017.
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I can tell you this. Never buy a remanned clutch. Always buy new. From what you have said I have to believe some one has tried to hose you. Go to a shop you know to be honest and competent.
Bean Jr., peifamily and BoxCarKidd Thank this. -
Sounds like you only need the clutch brake. Drive it home to your trusted mechanic and have him look at it and do the work.
RET423, Bean Jr., peifamily and 1 other person Thank this. -
I have a 2001 Volvo with a 13 Speed that I replaced the Clutch at 400k, I only replaced the Clutch because I was replacing the Transmission Mounts and the Trans needs to be pulled to replace the Mounts, so I replaced the Clutch since the Trans was out anyways.
Now 500k miles later on the same Clutch and the Clutch Brake was replaced twice.
It's doubtful your Clutch is bad, just put a new Two Piece Clutch Brake in there and you'll be good to go.
The reason your gears are grinding when you're putting it into gear when you start out is because of misadjusted clutch or/and worn Clutch Brake.
It sounds like those Mechanics were trying to fleece you. -
Clutch only wears when you use it. If you float all the time and only touch the clutch when taking off you'll probably be ok for a while. Not like you've got 50k lbs in tow behind the thing everyday and racking up 3,000 miles a week. If its working I'd put a new brake in it and leave it alone until it starts giving you trouble.
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Thanks everyone, I will grab a brake to have with me (get a discount on a friends parts account) and will have it replaced when I get home. I always float and only use the clutch taking off.
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If you had the transmission pulled to replace the rear engine mount bushings I thank you got fleeced.
I respect you posts!
Sometimes adjustments have to be altered from specifications inorder to to make up for other problems. A worn front bearing cover, clutch shaft bushings, etc. The pedal maybe a little odd but that does not mean your clutch has to be replaced. If it's running well take it to your mechanic at home as mentioned.peifamily Thanks this. -
On a Volvo VN Series truck, the Transmission Mount Bushings are horizontally mounted through the side of the Transmission on each side of the truck's frame rails.
To replace them, the Transmission has to come out.
So no, I didn't get fleeced.
Engine Mounts and Transmission Mount Bushings are two different things.Last edited: Apr 15, 2017
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Tranny bushings: Anything the engineers can do to cause extra shop hours they will..
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On the reman I have had good results from Mid America remans. If you do not have personal or a well guided reference on reman brands avoid them. I would be lerie of remains on high HP and torque applications as well.
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