Didn't read every post but on your fuel tanks I would clean one out and then replace the fuel lines to run just one tank. Less problems for a hobby truck and you get rid of the crossover line.
On first start with new lines I would run the return into a bucket until it flushes out the rack.
1986 GMC Astro rebuild...questions
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Modrob, Nov 8, 2017.
Page 18 of 19
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Modrob
Be careful of the windshield when tilting the cab, loose tools will get them every time, power steering stop leak type fluids can work wonders on the cab jacks.
Oh, back in the day we referred to the Astro as a•• hole 95.Modrob, 201, Oxbow and 1 other person Thank this. -
And then FINALLY, pics after getting it off. Had to cut away the spokes to try and get better contact points...using ball joint tool was able to start separating the hub from the top shaft collar, finding it was attached to the hub by 3 screws from under the collar. Needless to say the attachment was not attached any more and gave me better access to the bottom of the hub. Still couldn't get any kind of puller to get a good grip point until I cut away the spokes. Only then and bringing out the oxy/acet torch and really heating the shaft got it to loosen up. And hammering down into the shaft. NOW, I'm having to slowly file and repair the top of the shaft to get the nut back on. Seems so much heat and hammering mushroomed it just a little...
Attached Files:
-
-
I do have another wheel that I had bought for a 9000 Ford I had a few years ago, but the hub is too big for the shaft. I ended up making my own using the old Ford hub and it worked fine, but it seemed to "new" of a wheel and I was lucky to find a nice old-stock original wheel for a low price and install it later. Unless I can find another great deal, I'll have to make this one work again. I do see where a hub is available in eBay but even though it says it fits Brigadier it doesn't state any size...I'll have to dig a little more...it didn't take me too much effort to weld me up my own adapter...although not too pretty lol...
Attached Files:
-
-
Arrrrggggg!!! EVERY single nut, bolt, screw on this thing seems to have a mind for not coming loose or stripping. No matter how much PB Blaster I've used over several days...Tried taking the grill off tonight--3 Torx screws will not give up...1 ended up stripping inside the screw itself, and the others the nutlock is slipping from its holding place...I have never seen a vehicle with SO MANY fasteners that will not break free! Even inside the cab...
Rant over...lol...until tomorrow...skellr Thanks this. -
STILL, in the process of working on this truck, all this time later. (Too many other projects, and worsening health)
Right now trying to finish putting interior back together and fix some wiring issues in the dash.
As usual, every bolt and nut has been nightmares to to remove! I just put on the new Old Stock turn signals and one side went on fine. The other, those danged rivet-style nuts have loosened up and turn along with the bolts. I hate these things now. I could barely get two fingers in the cavity inside the cab, so no way to hold them. I decided to try and do a little spot weld on them. Ended up it didn’t stick very well to the base metal, but did stay on the nut rim. Just enough to turn a little bit then bind, so bolts then could be tightened...
More to come later. -
The Works, toilet bowl cleaner (20% hydrochloric acid) will chew the rust off stubborn fasteners. Get the liquid, not the gel. Apply it with a nylon model paint brush. Apply sparingly, let it work for a bit, then neutralize with baking soda.
Gloves and goggles would be a good idea.Modrob Thanks this. -
Projects like that take time.
Modrob Thanks this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 18 of 19