1988 4964f A/C problems

I fee you on the cash pinch
It started to get warmer so i got the ball rolling on my 01 kw ac.
Meantime bought 2 trailers, then
Midway through those, had to replace the exhaust manifold and turbo.

Left out in my other truck, had to do resleeve some exhaust broken under the bunk then this weekend made sure the 01 had perfect lighting and a more solid eld ecm connection, brakes....

This morning getting ready to leave, my older truck needed 2 batteries replaced and i had a christmas display for my warning cluster.

It never rains without pouring. Thats basically 3 weeks... i need a day off

 

You can get a Sanden FLX if they can’t find an exact match compressor, if you want to keep your lines the same. Might be worth getting new ends on lines to match a common off the shelf compressor. That’s what I did anyways. Welded nuts from a reusable fitting, to each new fitting. Instead of trying to find an off the shelf hose. They’re expensive anyway. Now if I need a new hose, all I need is the hose itself. Reuse my ends. Looks like this. Looks better since I tightened it up. Lol. I had a break at the end, after it got kinked during my inframe. Had to cut a new end, and reconnect the end. The compressor is a new item, has a fused clutch. If it locks up for any reason, fuse blows and clutch doesn’t lock up. Beats using a short belt for my alternator, especially since it’s a pad mount alternator and compressor. Probably not an issue on yours. Looks like you have dedicated a/c belts. I didn’t go with the FLX, as it’s an ear mount. They have adapters for the FLX for wiring and lines. Lines involve using a specific manifold adapter. Or you can make your own. Might have a compressor with same clutch, ear mount, only wrong wiring. You can use a FLX wiring adapter. My goal was to keep repair/replacement costs down. Since A/C always seems to need some sort of repair. Readily available parts especially. In a pinch I can use a very common compressor that’s usually in stock at any Dealer, for less than $200. Other options were special order, expensive compressors. For a while I used my old lines, but had to buy a different head, for the available compressor with proper clutch pulley and wiring. Heads only $15 or less. Easy to change. I didn’t want to be changing heads everytime I changed compressors. Bottom line is, there’s a few different ways to the end result.I had new ends welded onto the original bunk lines, since they were rusty, and wouldn’t come loose, when I replaced the expansion valve. $20, vs. $1000, for original lines from dealer. When the time comes, I’ll have nuts welded onto new fittings, and make my own lines. The fittings are great. With 2 of them and a short piece of rubber line, you can make a splice repair. Saving $$$$

 

I also have a big cam Cummins. If you like I will get you the compressor number that I bought along with the correct belt. That compressor will bolt up into the right place and it will match up with the pulley on the accessory Drive. The pulley will be smaller on the compressor but I have not had any problems with mine.

I also recommend buying a new condenser. If you flush the evaporator you can probably leave that alone but the condenser you should replace. After discussing it with several people I choose the most inexpensive condenser that I could find, and believe it or not I think it was delivered to my house for about $75. So far it has worked well and I've had no problems. Also make sure that you replace the dryer.

I'm not sure about how your hoses hook up and the different heads and that type of thing. I have a hydraulic shop near me that made up all of my lines for me and it really was not that expensive. You have to call and ask them if they make up lines with air conditioning fittings. Some shops might have a fitting that will adapt for what you need.

 

That’s what I try to do for any upgrades. When I swapped the York for Sanden, I adapted my old bracket, went through a bunch of measurements for the belt, to get the right tension. Once I got the right bracket, I ended up with the same belt # as the original York and bracket. So vin # still pulls up correct belt, though bracket and compressors different.

 

I had a Shop in New Orleans that makes hydraulic hoses, mostly for maritime. He welded the nuts to my fittings. I later had the same nuts welded onto a different style fittings when I changed compressors. I cut them off at a junkyard. Same with the bunk, cut the original expansion valve fittings off the inside cab of a truck, they were like new. Had them welded onto original bunk lines. Not sure what the reusable fittings are called. But when I recently made the repair at compressor, the old hose was stuck inside the fitting. Needed to be melted out. My torch was buried somewhere under the bunk. I was at a T/A. I took it in, and they had a new fitting. $10 maybe? So now I have the old fitting as a spare, if needed.The only thing is all my lines are the same diameter, unlike originals. But it doesn’t seem to make any difference. They sell all types of fittings, that can be cut if needed and welded onto the nut of a reusable fitting. You can take your expansion valve/compressor/dryer in and find the right fittings if needed. There seems to be about 3 different combinations for fittings, wiring, and a bunch of different clutches. Main thing is getting a compressor with the right clutch. Wiring can usually be adapted, there’s 1 wire, and 2 wire set ups. Hoses can be whatever’s needed, with those fittings, once the nuts welded onto the proper fitting. For instance, available at Murray’s

 

I googled reusable hydraulic fittings. There’s a bunch of different ones. Here’s a picture of one apart. To give an idea how they work. You would still need a male fitting of some sort to weld onto the fittings being used. For the swivel to thread onto.