Crank is a straight plug, I cant open the ecm, I paid 2000 dollars for it and it will void my warranty.
Dash cluster shows a short through the pin test, no power to coolant level sensor, found my wiper switch was shortedour causing a 12 volt Iinto a ground, pulled switch and ground was fine, I have found no burnt or broken witres in dash .
1996 Volvo D12 wia
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by aron12, Apr 2, 2015.
Page 27 of 33
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I apologize for the extra letters ect, it is not easy for me to use this tablet with sausage fingers.
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But u disable engine protection when U cut pin 29 wire!
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Yes but still didn't start, I also wired the coolant sensor and nothing. I am pretty sure the PCB board is bad in the cluster . The speedo and rpm do not cycle to half when ign is on. I also noticed a 9-1 , 9-2 coming up on LCD display. I believe it was pin6 plug b for coolant level sensor.
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Low fluid lamp stays on and the dash cluster also says wiring harness issue. The dash cluster test was helpful but didnt tell me why I have no pwer to my coolant level sensor , why my horn is weak, im assuming a new switch should take care of the windsheild wiper issue. As far as the sensor control unit. The book says it has a engine protection in the harness due to the low fluid level sensor running through it. It is actually flashing green now.
I will continue my search as we await the diagnostic. Next is low oil sensor. -
About you crankshaft sensor plug i don't know if you replace it or someone else replace it but i can tell you the correct replacement P/N is 3963695 90 degree for the crank sensor and for the cam sensor it's 3963696 straight plug.
The clue is those connector comes with two wires position A-B, the yellow wire is at the opposite position in the both connector, then if the connectors has been replace and mixed you can be out of time for the engine position.
Hope this can help.
Benaron12 Thanks this. -
I know you are deep in your problem. . . .may i suggest you a very simple test. . . . .
In the cab in your fuse box you three row of fuses A-B-C
A at top B in the middle and C at the bottom
If you can use a head lamp bulb as test light (it pull more amps) (not a std test light) check at the fuse position B-6 with the ignition key at ON position check if your big test light comes ON and bright, next check at the Fuse position B-8 if you turn ON your big test light
(note B-8 is one output of the ECM power relay)
Let me know your result please.
Benaron12 Thanks this. -
Will check it out today , thank you
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Power on all stated above , used a head light lamp, very bright
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