1998 N14 Oil Pan Removal!!!!

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by lotlizardcharlie, Mar 16, 2016.

  1. lotlizardcharlie

    lotlizardcharlie Bobtail Member

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    Jul 30, 2013
    Columbia, SC
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    (1998 FLD120 Conventional/set back axel mid roof)
    I removed all the bolts on my 98 N14 oil pan "Rear Sump." It comes down all the way off the engine but I cant get it to tilt out of location due to this bar looking thing connecting both steer tires. I think its the tie rod or stabilization bar. If I can get about an Inch of clearance from the bar...the pan will drop right out. Is there some type of way to jack the truck so that the bar moves away/down down??? I'm stumped!! There's a big cross member there to but that's not stopping it from coming down. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
    Reason for edit: forgot the name of the part
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  3. home time

    home time Bobtail Member

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    Mar 13, 2016
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    I type in what's going on on my truck into the internet and mechanics videos pop up.And the video shows me how to fix my truck.
     
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  4. boneebone

    boneebone Road Train Member

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    You're probably going to have to lift your engine up a little to give you enough room to slide it out.
     
  5. lotlizardcharlie

    lotlizardcharlie Bobtail Member

    16
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    Jul 30, 2013
    Columbia, SC
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    I bought a 20 ton jack and put it in the middle of the frame but it was lifting everything...the bar and all. Do you know the best location to get the motor to move up? Thanks also.
     
  6. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    You need to jack the truck up by the frame so the axle hangs, you may have to disconnect the shocks to allow it to drop enough.

    That bar thing connecting both steers is your tie-rod. Become familiar with your major steering and suspension stuff. They need to be checked and greased regularly. Knowing what you're looking at ans what to look for during a pre-trip might just save your life (or someone elses).
     
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  7. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Michigan
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    With that truck, you have to drop the tie rod, which isn't hard to do.

    Take the nut off, hit the knuckle where the tie rod end goes in, sometimes it takes a little hard hit and it should pop out. Do not hit the top part unless you have the right tool to protect the threads. And while it is down, check the tie rod ends to see if they are worn out, a hell of lot easier to replace when they are off the truck.
     
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  8. clausland

    clausland Road Train Member

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    North Woods
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    Ridgeline's right, get a big hammer and hit that knuckle hard, you may have to hit it hard again & again, sounds crazy I know, but it will drop out....Resist the temptation to hit the threaded part and don't re-use the cotter pin, good luck...
     
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  9. Pedigreed Bulldog

    Pedigreed Bulldog Road Train Member

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    Wow. The fact that you're attempting to remove the oil pan when you don't even know what a tie rod is tells me that you probably need your tool box welded shut & CDL cancelled. Isn't the tie rod ends part of your daily inspection? Or did you simply memorize the list of parts you were SUPPOSED to be checking along with that magical phrase "not cracked, broken, or missing"?

    My advise would be to hire a competent wrench-turner to supervise the process before you cause more damage than you're trying to repair or need to have it towed to a shop to get put back together.

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  10. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    The bar that connects the 2 steering knuckles is the tie-rod, there are no stabilizer bars on the front of an FLD120. These are very tight with an N14 in an FLD120 set back axle, but it does come off without taking the tie-rod off. You have to jack it up by the frame and go high enough to get the right angle on it, but it will fit. If the shocks are maxed out when you lift it, disconnect them at the top to allow the axle to hang more.
     
  11. lotlizardcharlie

    lotlizardcharlie Bobtail Member

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    Jul 30, 2013
    Columbia, SC
    0
    Hey thanks alot!!! I didn't need to remove te tie rod at all. I was able to jack the frame up with a 20 ton jack and a few wood blocks. The rear sump pan slid out backwards perfectly. Thanks for the help!!
     
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