2000 KW W900 vs 2000 FREIGHTLINER FLD132 CLASSIC XL

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Soon2BeOwnerOperator, May 27, 2023.

  1. Big Road Skateboard

    Big Road Skateboard Road Train Member

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    Trucks are too cheap to spend 30k on a Century Class Freightliner
     
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  3. ducnut

    ducnut Road Train Member

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    He’s looking at a Freightliner FLD Classic. That’s a hood; not a Century.
     
  4. LoneRanger

    LoneRanger Road Train Member

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    he posted a century later. I can see the confusion.


    To the OP, my first truck was a beat up old Columbia. Spent about 30k keeping it on the road. For the 2 years I had it. After all said and done it was ok, not the best but needed another 20k just to be where I wanted it to be.

    for that money if would have rather gotten a KW.
     
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  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Back then trucks were built with most all the same parts as each other. Its only been in the last 15 years that they've gone the way of the automotive industry and made everything proprietary.

    I'd be willing to bet if you looked at a late 90s/early 2000s Freightliner and KW side by side you'd have the same (or very similar) powertrain, steering, suspension, frame etc. Really the only major difference you'd likely see would be the cab and hood.

    Back then you had Cat, Cummins and Detroit to pick from for power, Eaton and Rockwell for transmissions/diffs, Rockwell and Eaton for steer axles, Shepperd, Ross and TRW for steering boxes. Suspensions had much more flavouring though. Usually had a couple proprietary suspensions (KW had the Airglide, FL had Airliner) and options for Hendrickson, Neway, Chalmers etc.
     
  6. Siinman

    Siinman Road Train Member

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    Seeing how you are financing them I would guess you do not have the money to run this business yet. That older truck should be bought with cash in hand. Why are you trying to go so old and wore out other then because that is all you can afford?
     
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  7. Siinman

    Siinman Road Train Member

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    Ok disregard my last statement. It looks like you have a little cash to buy what you want. If it was me I would pay cash for the truck and rent a trailer starting out for maybe 6 months to up to a year. This will give you cash in hand to be able to replace that motor or trans if need be in the first year. I would not use the credit cards in the beginning.

    You will also need to buy all the equipment to put on truck for the flat bed work. Will need to get your plates and insurance set up. Have you got a quote on insurance yet if you plan on running your own numbers?

    The Freightliner Truck itself is overpriced and is down the road from me. I have never done business with them so I know nothing about them personally. But they do have good reviews it looks like. If I had to pick one I think that would be the one. Save that cash since you are gonna need to use it on the truck most likely fixing issues. I would figure 20K min for the first year in fixing up the truck.

    I am sure you can do it but you better be able to get decent freight rates and be willing to work your butt off when it is good.
     
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  8. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Advice??

    Look for other trucks.

    Get the truck on a dyno, test the blowby, and so on.

    DO NOT finance with credit cards, house equity or anything that will leave you in debt when it crashes.
     
  9. Soon2BeOwnerOperator

    Soon2BeOwnerOperator Light Load Member

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    So you think a KW components will last longer or not need as much replaced?
     
  10. Soon2BeOwnerOperator

    Soon2BeOwnerOperator Light Load Member

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    What kind of truck would you recommend? Also what is a dyno? Is that a tuner? How do you test for blowby on a truck that you are purchasing, a mechanic can tell? I thought you may find that out only after running the truck, doing oil samples/noticing oil loss but I have no clue. If I can tell if there is any blowby and if the engine is still good before purchasing that would be great.
     
  11. Soon2BeOwnerOperator

    Soon2BeOwnerOperator Light Load Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I am looking at older trucks for a few reasons.
    1. I can work my butt off with an elog exempt truck.
    2. If I buy a used emissions truck I will be looking at something approx 500k miles so it may have regen issues i figure. Plus I won't be able to idle at truck stops in hot weather so I'll have to buy an electric apu. With a pre emmision engine I can idle without any problem.
    3. Buying a used truck I want to make sure I have the funds to do a complete overhaul if necessary. And from what I can tell (not sure why but assume emissions crap) it cost 20-30k to do a complete job on an old 12.7l detroit while alot of the newer trucks your looking at 40-60k for a complete overhaul. Please correct me if I am wrong and let me know thoughts.

    Does anyone know of anyone that rents flatbed or step-deck. I am still debating whether to get my own MC. If I can find a good carrier to work for doing flatbed I will otherwise I'll start my own MC.

    I agree it is a little pricey. I would love to see it for 30k instead of 35. But from what I can tell the body has 0 rust which must be worth something? Along with that it has 2.93 rears, 13 speed and 12.7l detroit witch is the exact specs I am looking for.

    That brings me to another question. It says it is a 500hp 12.7L detroit. But the specs plate on the truck says it is a 430 or 470hp or something. Can you take a 1999 12.7L detriot 60 series that is 430hp or 470hp and change it to 500hp? Would this be no different that a stock 500hp 12.7l?

    Also if you are from the area do you recommend a mechanic who could go check it out for me before flying down? And perhaps a shop I could test drive it to to get checked out.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2023
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