2005 Western Star 4900 with Detroit 60 Series... no start

Hello All,

Let me thank everyone in advance for taking the time to read and or reply to this thread.

*** Ok I got the engine started. I checked all the power and ground at the ECM pins. Had good power and ground. Put ECM plug back and still no start. Last resort I took a Heat Gun and warmed up the ECM trying to mimic a warm/hot day. Went to start the engine and it fired up right away. Anyone know how to remedy this problem? I will not always be able to use a heat gun to get my truck started. ***


On a normal warm or hot morning when I turn the key to the ON position all my gauges, like usual, get activated and do their thing... then I turn key to start the engine and truck starts like it should.

On a cool or cold morning, my truck has a starting issue. I turn the key to the ON position and all gauges get activated EXCEPT the volt gauge. It remains all the way to the left below the 10 volt mark (0 volts). If I look at the Data Star when it is set to volts, it indicates that there is 12.9 volt... but dash gauge is at zero. So then when I try to crank the engine over, it will not start if the volt gauge on the dash is at 0 volts. Again, this only happens when truck is cool or cold. Basically, engine will not start if the dash volt gauge is at 0 volts.

Has anyone else experienced this issue with their truck?
Any advise would be appreciated.

Thank you!!!

 

Hi. Thanks for the reply.
I also used a sealed high beam headlight. Best way! Must have been an internal loose connection. Removed the ECU and brought it over to be bench tested. Buddy could not get any return signal back from ECU. Heated it on bench and had singnal, so he cloned the info on it.... poured cold water on it and within a few minutes the ECU cut out.

Went to buy another ECU... set it up and truck running now.

Thanks again!!!

 

Hello Lukelx,

I replaced my ECM and had no problem getting the right programming done to it. A mobile DD guy can to me and he downloaded all the right parameters and updated software from the Detroit mainframe using my vin number. Then he was able to look at the old ECM and tweak the new one just like the old ECM was programmed.

I first tried to open up the old ECM. It is not easy as the DDEC III or IV. You have to be very very careful. Unscrew all the screws. The ECM opens like a book, but will need some light prying being very careful not to scratch the flexible PC board inside. Like I did, I used Brake and Electrical cleaner by Kleen-Flo. My ECM had and oily/watery mixture in it. It is known that oil will travel through the wires in the harness to the ECM...How I don't know, but I have heard that in my years of mechanics. Anyways... I cleaned it up and lightly blew compressed air over it and sealed it up with RTV Silicone. NOW... my truck started cold or hot without fail (many times) but when I turned the key on the Orange Engine light did not illuminate anymore like it is supposed to with the ignition on (the orange light is also an indication that the ECM is getting power with key on)... but the Red Stop Engine did (like supposed to)... but the Red Stop Engine stayed on all the time while the engine was running.

I idn't want to chance driving around without an engine light.

I hope this helps!