2013 Prostar Plus Question - Need your opinion

If all you want is a dependable truck for cheap and you don't need to go into cali, then go find a freightliner colmbia with a pre egr 12.7 series 60 in it. You can find them ready to work for 10 to 15k sure the plastic interior will be all cracked up butt that won't keep you frim making money and you can replace the entire interior cheap. The 12.7 engine is nearly indestructible and when things do break there isn't an engine with cheesier repair costs.

 

Unit has warranty extended until next year or 500,000 miles. Open recall for HVAC pressure sensor. Unit did get new liners and pistons last fall due to oil consumption. Nothing else major.

 

Do you know which version of the n13 it runs?

 

Hey heavy! Does this exhaust back pressure valve look normal to you and if this can cause low boost power issues?I'm chatting with you at your page. But I couldn't post a pic for you to see, so I'm posting it here.

 

Yes, that is normal and in the fully open position. When closed the rod from the cylinder is extended out and that lever will be down. It is good to keep an eye on these because they can get stuck down from seizing up or a failed air control valve applying air to it when uncommanded. This valve is used to increase exhaust back pressure to increase load and exhaust heat during warm up and regens. It should be fully open any other time. When it gets stuck closed your engine will have no power at all and be a complete dog.

 

Thanks heavyd

 

This is what the mechanic is getting but the poor guy is still trying to find out. Let me know if can help looking at it. He thinks fuel restrictions is the problem f

This is what the mechanic is getting and he thinks the loss power is because of restrictions in fuel and the truck isn't getting what it supposed to and he's still trying to figure out where the problem is. I feel bad for him. Here is the attachment, let me know if you see anything that can help. Thanks

 

Ok, you need to do a road test with someone watching the laptop. Have it on "Performance" snap shot. You need to be able to safely, and legally, run the engine from 1100 rpm to 1800 rpm in a top gear under full acceleration. This will put the engine under 100% load. At about 1700 or higher it will produce maximum results at 100% load and throttle position. You should have the following;

Accelerator pedal position 99 or 100%
Intake manifold pressure about 40-42 psi
TC1TOP (exhaust back pressure) less than 5 psi
DPF diff pressure less than 1.2 psi
fuel delivery pressure 80-120 psi
Fuel rail pressure desired and actual should match closely (accept when letting off the throttle).
Fuel pressure control valve FPCV should be higher than 20% (lower the % means the higher the pump has to work. Anything less than 15% shows a worn out pump. Healthy new pumps are about 40% duty cycle at full load)

 

The mechanic did that test with me driving and that was the snap shot that I posted, I don't know if you looked at it. The mechanic gave up on it, he couldn't figure it out.These to things look off to me from the description you gave me. The fuel rail pressure desired is 14,380 psi and getting 13,723. The intake manifold pressure desired is 36.80 psi and getting 0.29. What are your thoughts on that.

 

That screen shot is only barely at idle, 724rpm with 24% engine load. You have to work the engine. All the specs I gave you are to be achieved when the engine is under full load, (100%) and near 1800 rpm. The differences in the fuel rail pressure actual vs desired are normal. You will never have a perfect match. You are looking for 2000 psi or more difference when there is a problem. Also, manifold desired isn't used as a calculation until the engine under full load, so that value is meaningless at lower rpms.