22.5 or 24.5s on a flatbed spread axle?
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by BAYOU, Mar 14, 2013.
Page 7 of 7
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lol nice..
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it depends. Personal i keep the same size on the trailer that i have on the truck so if you have 24.5 on the truck run them the trailer. mutli reasons. carry one used steer and you can cover any postion should you get a flat. also with flats you have an arch in the trailer. if your trailer is lower than the truck the weigh pushes back onto the spread. dont change your truck if its already running good. as for 22.5 getting better mpg thats bull...100 percent bull. it all depends on how your truck is geared. if you have power gears all ready and drop it to a lp 22.5 you lose your speed will be running higher RPMs and burning fuel. 22.5 give a better power ration than the same size in 24.5. now keep in mind a lp 24.5 is the same height as a 11r22.5 i just say because i know a few people here and thats the first things they will try to attack me on...lol
anyways like i said mainly just keep to what works on the truck and as for SS watch out more and more trailer mains will not honor warranties if you are running SS. on my new Rit its even in the paperwork in bold letters. NO SUPER SINGLES ON TRAILER SPREAD. so be warned. they are very hard on the hangers and rear frame rails. plus eating up the insides because the scuff so badlySHC Thanks this. -
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flatbed22 said: ↑They have anymore? I would love to swap out my steel.Click to expand...
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BAYOU HOTSHOT said: ↑You can get them almost anywhere $125-$150 just call around I made one call and found these I gave $1150 for theseClick to expand...
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When I ran flat (instead of my stepdeck now) I always ran LP 22.5's to match my truck tire size. Tires from the truck could be recapped if necessary and ran on the trailer so was only buying virgin for the truck. If you take care of the caps then you wont have a problem. You can always find a used/regrooved LP 22.5 pretty much anywhere and only have need to carry 1 spare if you wanted.
SHC Thanks this. -
carrkool said: ↑Boardhauler said: ↑why in the world did it take you a month to wire a dump vavle switch in....its so simple....
buy a on off toggle depending on how you want it. i like to run a black pig tail so i can add lights and power to the trailer, buy the pig tail you want and the plugs run wire from the dash out the firewall down the frame rails to the bunk and wire up the plug according to how you have the trailer wired. plug in pigtail and test....maybe 2 hours work if your slowClick to expand...
1. I was running my ##### off.
2. The only time I went home in the first month I had a plethora of more important issues to address.
3. I didn't consider the lack of a dump valve a huge issue. I spent several years driving for a co. that wouldn't have dump valves & learned that if you just take the tight turns wide & slow you won't tear your tires up that badly.
I finally tapped into the lights on the back of the cab. A quick & dirty fix that will work until the upgraded version percolates to the top of my project list.Click to expand...MJ1657 Thanks this.
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