3406 B failed emissions in NY

I wish you well. There is absolutely no reason you shouldn't be able to run that truck if it's in good shape, passes all safety inspections and kept up. I run a 96 3406E so I'm kind of in a similar ballpark as you even though mine does not smoke a lick and is a totally stock tune. I refuse to change trucks simply because mine is clean, safe, efficient and reliable. Yes, I'm always doing something to it but most of those things I can do myself. I also own a B Model so this stuff interest me too. I do believe if I ever put the B on the road the exhaust will be directed out underneath. You should be able to get better mileage from the old truck now I suppose since you learned about the AFR adjustment. Is it AFR or a fuel curve adjustment? My 3406e is a low powered one at 435 hp but I still refuse to change it because it's plenty good enough for what I do and the torque is set at 1600 ft.lbs. so it really does pull pretty good despite the low HP numbers for what I haul.

 

Thinking of the mechanical throttle stop reminds me of my 1940 Case VI tractor. Case wanted to compete in the 1 and 2 plow tractor market but only had a 3 plow tractor. After designing the V series case tractor with a Red Seal Contintal engine in the late 1930's with all Clark gears in the trans and diff they did a small test and realized they had built a monster in a small frame! Case needed to drop the drawbar horsepower somehow so..... Rather than redesign the tractor this is what they did. They redesigned the transmission cover / shift tower with 1st and 2nd gear shift rail that extended to the outside of the cover. Then designed a cantilever arm with a roller on one end against the shift rail which had detents cut in it. In 1st or 2nd gear the throttle would be blocked allowing the RPM's to only reach 1400 instead of the normal 1650 RPM's. By doing this the tractor lost enough power to only pull a double bottom plow and weighed more than its replacement the VAC with an OHV engine. And engineers today think they are really smart.

 

Thanks for the education, thats awesome.

 

Great news, glad to hear that....I thought you had a strong case and by doing your homework you proved it, even in NY, ha.....

 

@rank mentioned this thread on another, and I just completed reading it, and thought that I would bump this thread.

Regarding the air to fuel ratio on a B model, I have played with mine a bit in order to find a setting that minimizes the smoke during shifts, and I learned what happens if one goes too far. For those that aren't aware of what this adjustment does, it regulates the amount of boost pressure required to allow the rack to go to full throttle. I am not a mechanic or an expert by any means, so if I am mis-stating anything please feel free to correct me. What happens if one adjusts the AFR too far (more boost pressure required to allow rack to move) is that you get to a point where you cannot get the engine enough fuel to build boost, which is required allow the rack to open up. If one adjusts this the other way, the AFR will allow full fuel before the necessary amount of boost to properly burn the fuel, resulting in black smoke. Through my experiments one can reduce the amount of smoke considerably with adjustment, but not get rid of it altogether. Of course this can also be accomplished with disciplined use of the right foot!

Regarding runaway conditions of mechanical B models, can this happen if the governor fly weights come apart, or get stuck? A friend of mine said that he had that happen, but I had not heard of that before. If this can happen then I would think that just cutting one of the charge air cooler hoses would not be enough to shut one down, and plugging the intake air (back to the old phone book again) or shutting off the fuel supply would be the only way to shut one down.

 

26 psi of boost is pretty good compared to stock settings with a stock turbo though. I believe 18 to 22ish was good for stock settings.

 

Do you have to have one of those certificate's to run NY @rank