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3406 exhaust manifold stud hole depth

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Gumper, Jul 3, 2019.

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  1. Jul 3, 2019 #1
    Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Anyone have an idea how deep the holes for the exhaust manifold studs on a 3406 are? Trying to drill four broken studs, and don’t want to go through a water jacket.
     
    Gumper, Jul 3, 2019
    Gumper, Jul 3, 2019
    #1
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  3. Jul 3, 2019 #2
    Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    I've never measured. Maybe someone will have one apart and can get you a live accurate number. If you drill it square just stop when the bit drops. Theres always a gap between the stud and the head, plus the cast drills like butter compared to the stud.
     
    Goodysnap, Jul 3, 2019
    Goodysnap, Jul 3, 2019
    #2
    wore out Thanks this.
  4. Jul 3, 2019 #3
    Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    I would have liked to take an old stud out, but they will not budge. I have all the old ones drilled about 7/8 deep where it seemed to turn into cast.
     
    Gumper, Jul 3, 2019
    Gumper, Jul 3, 2019
    #3
  5. Jul 3, 2019 #4
    Cam Roberts

    Cam Roberts Road Train Member

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    any protusion at all??
    HEat the head on the outside of the studs and turn with vice grips. Im sure you new that but had to throw that out there
     
    Cam Roberts, Jul 3, 2019
    Cam Roberts, Jul 3, 2019
    #4
  7. Jul 4, 2019 #5
    Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Really wanted to avoid heat if I could. My luck it will crack the head. Didn’t expect to have such a hard time getting the studs out. Tried two nuts jammed together, and also a pipe wrench on the stud. Everything was soaked repeatedly with penetrating oil.
     
    Gumper, Jul 4, 2019
    Gumper, Jul 4, 2019
    #5
  8. Jul 4, 2019 #6
    Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    Dave_in_AZ, Jul 4, 2019
    Dave_in_AZ, Jul 4, 2019
    #6
  9. Jul 4, 2019 #7
    062

    062 Road Train Member

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    If you have enough left to weld a nut to it should come out pretty easy. If not I’d put a little heat on it then tap it a few times with a punch or bolt about the same size,then try a e z out.
     
    062, Jul 4, 2019
    062, Jul 4, 2019
    #7
  10. Jul 4, 2019 #8
    QUALITYTRUCK

    QUALITYTRUCK Road Train Member

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    Insert drill bit into one of the holes that already have stud removed. Put piece of electrical tape around drill bit where it touches the outside of the hole. Now you know how far you can go, when edge of tape touches head.
     
    QUALITYTRUCK, Jul 4, 2019
    QUALITYTRUCK, Jul 4, 2019
    #8
    wore out and spsauerland Thank this.
  11. Jul 4, 2019 #9
    Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    The broken ones were 1/8 into the hole, so I didn’t think the welding would work. I center drilled each stud then tried ez outs. Broke two ez outs... had to use a dremel to grind out said ez outs. At that point I started drilling each one which was hard as hell one bit size at a time until I got to 5/16”. Now I need to find a bottom tap to chase the threads, and I’ll hope that there’s enough meat on them to hold new studs. Not sure what I can do if there isn’t other than drill up another size and tap that.

    I wish I wouldn’t have started this project, but with two leaking cylinders I believe it had to be done. A shop would have done the same thing, and then charge me $1500 for it.
     
    Gumper, Jul 4, 2019
    Gumper, Jul 4, 2019
    #9
  12. Jul 4, 2019 #10
    Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    I never use an extractor of any type of broken bolt less I see it move when I'm drilling it. Even then the straight splined extractors are the best and don't swedge and expand like a spiral or fluted extracter as it is tightened. This expansion and wedge factor actually locks the bolt tighter with no hope of moving less you have a ton of meat between the center and hole edge which there never is.

    Get a 3/8-16 helicoil kit. Once the bolt is out, drill out the hole to the correct size, tap it oversize and put the helicoil in, done. This is the cheapest, best alternative you can hope for to save it if the original threads are already fubarred. You don't need a bottoming tap and the kit comes with a new tap in it.

    https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5521-6-Coarse-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRDVE/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=3488629926&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=helicoil+3/8-16&qid=1562255856&s=gateway&sr=8-3
     
    Goodysnap, Jul 4, 2019
    Goodysnap, Jul 4, 2019
    #10
    QUALITYTRUCK and spsauerland Thank this.
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