I'm fixing to take check this oil cooler out. Should I be ordering a gasket/O ring kit before I do? It's listed at $345 CDN from the local KW dealer.
3406 high coolant temps
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by rank, May 4, 2018.
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Oil cooler is off. I have to say I was hoping it would be plugged worse. Doesn’t seem too bad. I can see through 90% of the tubes after I cleaned that crud off the inlet side. So long as it’s off I bought some Nu-brite cleaner from the A/C supply store and well clean It anyway,
Inlet (water pump side) side after removal. Most of this was silicone but there was also some metal. Most came off with compressed air
Not a lot of water flow from the garden hose
Water pump outlet
Tubes Seem clean to me
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OLDSKOOLERnWV, Oxbow and Feedman Thank this. -
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I won't say that ain't it, but I would sure felt it would take more than that to make the heat yiur describing.
I will say I pulled a radiator off an old dresser dozer one time sent it to the shop radiator guy calls says no way this is your issue. This tractor would get hot quick. So I tell go ahead and dread putting it back on. Long story short it cured our issue.
I did see what looked like a real new liner that's a plusOLDSKOOLERnWV, SAR, Oxbow and 2 others Thank this. -
OLDSKOOLERnWV, Oxbow and Feedman Thank this.
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This engine happen to have a Brakesaver?
Oxbow Thanks this. -
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Mmmm, that doesn't appear to me to be bad enough inside to cause that much temp rise honestly. As wore out just said, sometimes the strangest things occur and by doing the one thing that you think isn't, it might just be...
I just went through a 32 day, grueling engine replacement project on my 78 KW. Yesterday was my maiden voyage. I'm tickled with the difference from the PCTA to the B model Cat already. Those A models are good 'ol dependable hunks 'o iron, but in terms of torque rise and fuel consumption, they're definitely lacking the luster of the 3406B.
I was going through the same exact heat issue you are. I flushed the radiator back a few months ago with the Cummins brand flush, and it seemed to be better for a short time. Then it just came back, couldn't keep it cool with the fan on no matter what. I pressured washed and blew the radiator core out repeatedly for weeks to try and get it to behave, but to no avail, and the result was a mini Chernobel meltdown.
I had a guy recore the radiator and I paid strict attention to what I wanted him to look at, which was how bad or good the core looked. He said he expected it to look a lot worse based on my description of how it was behaving. But he never took the time to rod the tubes like they once did in the olden days to get the buildup out of the tubes...all he did was look at the top and bottom of the old core.
I now have a perfectly good running engine, and yesterday I ran all day in close to 100*F humidity with the A/C cranking all day, pulling hills and mountains loaded, and I am glad to say it would go to 200*F and the fan would instantly take it back down to 195*F. On the flats, empty, it never came on at all. That to me is a properly working radiator. It's been unrealistically hot around here this month, and I'm happy with the way it's performing now compared to before.
I'd have to lean on the radiator theory next. What you can't see CAN hurt you when it comes to the inside of a radiator core. There may be more of that black crud that you mentioned you discovered earlier on inside the tubes that has hardened up and causing low flow...
Did you buy that truck from a guy over by Duanesburg by any chance rank?Feedman Thanks this.
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