3406b questions

The A’s you could remove the screws. The B’s you remove them and it may run harder for a while lol. Most are too hard headed to listen they think they know it all cuz they got a 9/16ths wrench. I have took money from several on a bet that putting the screws back in will make it run better. I’ve seen em run a 100k with them out and not get the pump cam. I’ve seen em not make 50. Some say I’m wrong and that the scroll gear causing that burr has nothing to do with it. What I am sure is max travel is when that square slot up the plunger is directly center of the fuel inlet hole. When it goes past that it’s starting to close the fuel off again. I find max travel with the back of the pump off the football cover at front off. I hold the rack back with a screwdriver and start in with the fuel screw. You can tell when it touches even though it doesn’t stop. Hard to explain but when doing it it’s easy to see. When it touches I give it another half turn. Then barely put spring pressure on the torque rise. Put it back together and if it’s still a little hard to get rolling I turn the torque screw only in 1/2 turn. Try again I may do that 3 times till it has the response I want. Depending on the torque group they all have a different setting. Without the tools and the info from the arrangement number a half round at a time is only way I know. That .030 thousands deal is not a it’ll work for all. When they are right idk what’s on its back if it’s 3.36 rears or 4:11’s you come up with that clutch in low gear no throttle it’s gonna lift that left front corner and go.


I set my big motor to spec. It wouldn’t start a load or pull a big grade without moving the pedal for nothing. I checked and rechecked everything. New govnor spring and over run spring again just to be sure. Weights races etc. it just wouldn’t do it. It would run like a banshee but was hell to get rolling softly. Checked FTS 3 separate times with the CAT tools. In the end went back to my poor boy ways of doing it. I was a full turn off. I went in a half it got noticeably better. That next half turn made it where you can almost dump the clutch loaded at idle and not kill it.

sorry for the book but I’m not good at explaining things. Hopefully you get something useful out of that

 

I disagree at @wore out. You are very good at explaining things and very easy to follow. Continue on my friend.

 

I am sure you’re fine by the boost being affected by the fine inward adjustment you made. It’s a poor boy way and trouble some the way you’re going but very effective. Still the way I set my own being honest but I’m a bit picky lol.