okay..... I know I’m gonna get flamed over the fire for asking this question but I’m on a very tight budget on my truck right now. I had water in the oil and pressure tested the coolant system to find the leak. I unfortunately found the leak to be the #1 cylinder liner leaking. So, now I’ve pulled the head and liners. The liner o-rings were brittle and fell apart.![]()
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This truck is new to me as I’ve only owned it since February. This is a 1999 Pete with a cat 3406E with around 700,000 miles. I’ve cleaned up the lower and upper bore for the liner o-ring surface. Unfortunately a few areas have corrosion and pitting close to the sealing surface. One area of concern is an upper sealing surface that’s questionable. Take a look at the pics.
My question is this, can I get away with cleaning up the surface with a stone? Has anyone heard of Belzona? It’s kinda like JB cold weld. Can I fix this without calling a machinist to cut the bore for a sleeve? I plan on checking liner protrusion before I have to commit to cutting for shims.
3406E liner bore corrosion
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by WyoVac, May 11, 2018.
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From what I see of the pics I thank that is all above the sealing area anyway. My concern would be messing up the seals getting past the rough areas. One of the products you mentioned should be fine in my opinion.
That is just to make a smooth transition to the sealing area. No stones because you want all the original material you have left. -
Like boxcar said. Looks like that's above the sealing surface. Take some Emory cloth and clean them up so no sharp edges and you should be fine.
It started leaking because the Orings were old and brittle. .
I've seen more engines get inframed from this issue then being wore out.
Time is a killer just as much as milage.Tug Toy, Heavyd, WyoVac and 1 other person Thank this. -
I have had good results applying a layer of JB weld to this area. Make sure you use the regular and not the quick and let it cure overnight. Flapwheel or hand sand the bore to remove the excess and to make it smooth. The big thing here is that the o rings dont get caught or cut on that lip when installing the liner.
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have your block counter bored $100.- whatever the mobile guy charges.
measure your clean holes get shim packs and new liner's.
have you a professional straight edge (machinst grade) check you deck for warp and your head as well. spend a buck clean and save the block. -
Back in about 1984 i worked at a shop and we had a 300 Mack with a cracked block sleeve leaking coolant in to the oil.
The Belzona rep had us drill a hole on each end of the crack and then grind a small vee in to the crack itself.
We then filled it with Belzona and then pressed the dry sleeve in.
That truck never leaked a drop of coolant after that.
As you can tell from my story Belzona has been around a long time and has proven itself many times over the years.Kw Owners Club, Tug Toy and WyoVac Thank this. -
Thank you all for the replies. This is only the second inframe job I’ve ever been involved with. Looking at it again, yes the actual sealing surface isn’t bad,just right above it. The liners had some serious corrosion and pitting on them. I’ll make sure I clean all the sharp edges. Here in Casper, Wy we have many truck shops and one in particular uses a machine shop local that cuts the upper cylinder bores. The cost is around $1500..... that’s a lot for me considering I just bought the cat reman head for $4000 + $3600 for the liner/piston pack.
wore out Thanks this. -
ideally you would have them machined and inserted.
you could also use an IPD crevice seal liner. the top square seal would cover, fill and still seal a poor surface.
otherwise worst case clean up surface and use belzona -
peterbilt_2005, Tug Toy, Broke Down 69 and 1 other person Thank this.
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