@Hogleg on the subject of the trucks value the cut off with hub pilot hubs, and later diffs will only increase the trucks value in my opinion. Parts for the SQ100's are getting scarce and hard to get new or used. Also the Budd wheels can be worrisome because few take the time to tighten them right any more. I just thought I would add another angle to view.
On any I have ever streched I just add inner rails (full channel) vee the area to be welded and lay it together with 7018. Uphill. Wire is as strong but a DC stick is what I know. Cut the cross members in the center and weld them back together so they don't bow the frame. Disguise your extra two by putting them at the rear bunk mounting locations for 36" 48"and 63". Grind the outside weld off flush and tiger paw it. Take your time on that.
I wouldn't try to weld the diamond reinforcement plate a straight butt weld is fine. I have also seen frames ruined by a welder with no confidence so he runs stringer after stringer like he is welding a track hoe bucket. Also put the weld at a cross member between the bolts.
359 Pete - What would you do?
Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by Hogleg, Feb 3, 2017.
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Woreout, you mind elaborating on the dismissal of my diamond plate theory?
Im just curious as to why you feel the way you do about them. Im not trying to pick a fight or anything, If you know something good as to why plates should not be used here, let's hear it. I can always learn something today.
Be well.wore out Thanks this. -
The time for the diamond plate is after a tear. A tear can really never be fixed. Also don't weld it all the way around. Leave it open at the corners. A plate won't hurt anything other than you can't put it inside because of needing that space for the inner rails. Lots of trucks are partially double framed and they don't draw alot of attention. If they are put on the outside then it's first thing an inspector See's. I want a never worked on look, even though the trained eye knows that it has. I agree that a stepped joint or an angle is stronger I just have never had any trouble with a butt joint. Getting square is key. Not filling a gap is key.
Ruthless, strollinruss and x1Heavy Thank this. -
Sorry I didn't mean to sound like I was dismissing it. Or that it won't add strength it will.
x1Heavy Thanks this. -
wore out Thanks this.
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Nothereoften, strollinruss and x1Heavy Thank this.
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I'm in the no welding of the reinforcing plate camp as well. I would imagine, depending on the length, that it would crack at the welds as the frame flexes. At least with bolts there is a little bit of room for flex.
x1Heavy Thanks this. -
Got a quote from a big truck shop here that does a lot of frame work. They quoted roughly $1800 to $2000 or thereabouts to replace both frame rails from the cab back. They have a jig that uses the old rail to make the new one. They can get 379 cutoffs for around $2000 to $2500 if I want to go that way. Strongly considering doing just the rail replacement, but still thinking about it. As it is, even with the wiring and air line refresh, I am upside down on the truck by quite a bit. If someone was to want to buy it now they would probably offer salvage value. Yes, it is that bad, in my opinion. Think I will fix it so I can run it, instead of selling (of course unless the right offer presents itself). Will personal/farm license it and be able to dink around with it. If the situation changes we can always restart the authority and go at it again. If I get it 100% functional it should hold a reasonable value, I would think, even with a less desirable Small Cam.
As to if I go with the cutoff the costs really start to escalate. We have the cost of the cutoff and the install, then I get into driveline rebuilds, more rewire, etc. Sounds like a lot of work and $$. If I go that far, I would then have to really consider a interior kit, etc. When does it stop? Got to draw a line somewhere.
JohnLast edited: Apr 10, 2017
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Get a load of these re-wire pics -
40 Year old wiring harness. Most of it had been bypassed...
5 gallon bucket of wire. This was all of the wire we pulled from the truck that was used to bypass the existing harness.
Rotten, rusted air lines. I wonder if the newer plastic lines will hold up any better.
This was the old trailer cable connection. It was melted on the connector in the cab and melted in 2 places on the frame. They just bypassed around it. I replaced it with a green ABS cable and will put breakers on each line to insure a trailer short does not do this again.
Johnx1Heavy Thanks this.
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