400 big cam 3 cummins heavy haul setup

I here mixed reviews. Have you done that?

 

That 177148 is hard to beat for all around performance..
I inherited a switchblade on 3406b that I had bought .The guy I bought the motor from thought that turbo was the berries
I was greatly disappointed in the motor after I put it in a truck I had..so I double checked & rechecked everything I had done to that motor to make sure everything was dailed in correctly finally swaped out that turbo and put a 177148 on and it fixed my disspointments with that motor

 

I knew someone that had it done back in the early 90’s. He claimed that he could keep up with the CATS and some. But he did spin a bearing on the crank about 3 months after. He disappeared when he got divorced, so honestly I can’t say to much after that.

 

Yes I had installed that.

The problem was not when slowing.

 

I bet the issues you had were that turbo increased your HP enough that you couldn't hold a clutch or driveline in the truck
And that turbo created enough boost that you kept pop'n head bolts ..right ??
I finally ended up putting 3 four inch load straps around the motor and ratchet strap'n the head down it stopped pop'n head bolts then but still had issues with the head gasket

 

I hear if you install 2 Switchblade turbos you get double the horsepower but you have to weld the cylinder head on to make it stay still.

 

@Oxbow sent me his switchblade to try after taking it off. Any Borg with a 96mm exhaust wheel will work in that housing. It came with a 78.8 wheel I put my 80mm wheel in that housing wired up the little solenoid and off we go. Slowed it down and raised pyro temps over my straight 1.45 housing. It just didn’t have that light and go feel. It only ran a trip and glad I took my 1.45 with me. The rod that holds the actuator to the exhaust housing that is welded on by manufacturer broke on the first trip across US400 in Kansas. Now their weld held up, the rod broke right at start of weld. US400 is rough and we don’t let no grass grow.

When we ran the hillbilly dyno it wasn’t enough to drop a half gear from the 1.45 but very noticeable. I usually never ran over 800 on the pyro and I was backing out of it when we hit the top. It’s supposed to provide the best of both worlds and I’ll be honest nothing can do that to get you gotta give. Do you need power down low run a small housing. 177148 is the choice there. You need power in the upper band run a 78/1.45 or an 80/1.45. If your set up is right you won’t see a huge difference in how they light. There is some.
My current set up I run a set of compounds. Bunch of industrial internals, C-15 crank, and an odd pump that came on a B but has the C plungers. Changed some stuff there to B but kept some stuff C. That’s all I wanna say about that. Made 680 to the wheels at 1800 when the dyno started getting hot and was shut down. Water temp never broke 190 pyro was at 750. Both steady, I felt cheated cause I wanted to pull it to 2300.

To prove a point I put a 78/1.45 on it with a full tilt manifold. Belonged to a guy I was doing motor work for. We were talking and he said he’ll run it a few days it won’t hurt. Now I think an 80 woulda been a lot better but I will say the 78 didn’t suit me at all. Had I never seen it with those compounds I woulda loved it….however I was already ruint.

The whole purpose of the pump I’m running is the nozzles. B nozzles crack at 1800 psi. My nozzles crack at 3500. The B plungers won’t live at that psi. Some say a b pump flows more fuel so makes more power. My take on that is with any system oil, fuel, water, no matter if pressure goes up flow goes down plain and simple. Since the C runs a higher injection pressure naturally flow will be lower. However higher injection pressure creates better atomization a finer more combustible mix through larger holes in the nozzle. And the answer to why a b can be so deadly to itself when turned up the bigger droplets on top the piston will burn hotter a lot hotter. Same principle as having nozzles or injectiors flowed to run more fuel. Plus they only open 1 hole which makes them hot on one side. Ya that works on a toy. But for how long on a work truck?

I’m just a dumb ### ol country boy, no education and don’t know come here from sickem bout anything. But I will say no matter what you do the old mechanical platform will never compare to the electronic engines. They will never produce the torque nor run as efficient. Timing is by God everything and a push tube engine will have timing deflection an overhead cam that the rockers are opening the valves with an ecm controlling point of injection that’s key point of injection will be more accurate. The pressure at which a common rail engine fires is the key to where their power and torque comes from. On the old mechanical engines that the cam run the plunger on the injector the plunger had to bottom out to fire. To change fuel timing you had to change valve timing. On the electronic motors the solenoid controls point of injection and how much fuel is put in the injector body. That’s what made the mechanical CAT shine the pump is independent from the valve cam. For its day nothing better, I built mine cause like I said I’m just a poor boy. I can’t afford a new truck the way I operate. It took a lot of heartbreak to get what I get out of mine. It takes a few minutes and a couple dollars to get that out of a common rail

 

That is funny but I have actually seen an exhaust manifold welded to the head. Yes it leaked.

 

Poor welder?