Little steps, but we're gaining:
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Feeling sporty with the dual squirters on a B model!
4MG Rebuild
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Oxbow, Feb 19, 2024.
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It’s really honest to goodness nothing to be worried about. I’ve never had a minutes trouble out of the rotating assembly or seen sign’s during a bearing roll to say this isn’t ideal. I know alot of people that think oil pressure is king and worry to death over not having 40 psi at idle. It helps to get past the thought of it with a little pre warningmile marker 27, broke down plumber, Sons Hero and 2 others Thank this. -
broke down plumber, ElmerFudpucker and wore out Thank this.
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Yes to all that. Some think shimming the spring raises oil pressure when all it does is keep the bypass closed. Now I will say the bypass starts opening gradually so you delay that you do gain some pressure. The sealing surface of the bypass being smooth matters etc. With new cam bearings that should help. Rocker shafts being in good shape with the bottoms of bases flat filed will help. Flat file the oil pump outlet that bolts to block. No gasket no sealer of any type. That all helps. Pressure goes up flow goes down. So every small internal leak lets pressure go down. Flow is increased but out the leak does that make sense? So a big enough leak in the right spot can rob flow from the end of the line. I always make sure my top is oiling regardless of my pressure. The added squirter is gonna drop your pressure because it’s increased the flow of oil. The single squirts are a bigger hole but the double flow more oil. It’s a give to get deal
mile marker 27, jamespmack, broke down plumber and 2 others Thank this. -
broke down plumber and Oxbow Thank this.
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CAT spec is 18 at idle and 38 at high idle.
broke down plumber, ElmerFudpucker and Oxbow Thank this. -
I decided to leave the spring on the oil pump alone. Worst case scenario is that oil pressure ends up being too low and we drop the oil pan and maybe put a later model pump or shim the spring.
We are slowly running out of parts in the boxes from IPD! We brought in the engine that has the crack in the block and began swapping parts. The head has less than 100K on it and looks to be in excellent shape.
Pulled the engine out and used the excavator to tilt it right-side-up. Forgot to get a photo of that operation but it worked slick.
This is representative of all of the cylinders in the engine with the cracked block except #1.
Here is #1. My concern is the area between the white lines - it's kind of an oily/carbon build-up. It doesn't really matter unless it is the nozzle causing it, but I am curios.
Here is the head before cleaning. It looked really good to me. It is now on the new build and headbolts torgued to 330. We'll check them again in the morning and then put the rockers and remaining bolts on.mile marker 27 Thanks this. -
Oops, all of the photos didn't post.
#1:
Head:
D.Tibbitt Thanks this. -
Almost looks like #1 was burning a little oil. Fair bit of carbon.
Oxbow Thanks this. -
Good looking build! I've done a few with IPD stuff, including a 3ZJ with that same enhanced durability kit you are using. No complaints at all, about 170k miles so far. With the B pump and 14.6 pistons will you use 3421 nozzles? or something different. I would consider changing the oil pump spring retainer now while its apart, not exactly an easy clean job to drop the pan and reinstall IMO. Looking forward to the finished product!
Oxbow Thanks this.
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