It does look like oil, but what I’m seeing is right by that spot the spray pattern from the nozzle looks a bit darker almost thicker. Might be optical illusion idk. If that is the case have that one pop tested. See if it’s leaking before the it pops.
I don’t really see any trace of oil on the chamber side of head. But take a light and shine in exhaust port and intake port. You looking for a valve stem that has more oil than the rest below the guide. That’s usually easy enough to spot. If so I’d say probably had a bridge slightly off
4MG Rebuild
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Oxbow, Feb 19, 2024.
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mile marker 27, broke down plumber and Oxbow Thank this.
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We would have to add a gallon about 8k miles, but I attributed that to the cracked block. Could have been that to. That residue is almost oily to the touch.broke down plumber and ElmerFudpucker Thank this.
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We have stock nozzles in it now, but I'm not sure of the number. I thought we'd stick with them for a bit but if I have a bad one it may be a good time to swap.
We already have the new retainer in it, but I was thinking of shimming it a bit. The pan is on now though, so we'll see how it does.broke down plumber and BigCam9670 Thank this. -
Ok, I misinterpreted that. It'll be just fine for you I believe!
Oxbow Thanks this. -
Thanks, I'll look in the ports in the morning and probably get that one pop tested too. You were saying I might go to the other nozzles with these pistons? I think I have 3425s. Should I try the 8785s?
There's no little tiny cracks on any of the pistons so I assume that it's not over fueled. And it breathes really well with this turbo.
Thanks to everyone for comments and help.mile marker 27 and broke down plumber Thank this. -
The head looks great. I’m betting the rings didn’t seat good. Looks like there was a lot of carbon packing at the top of the cylinder wall.broke down plumber and Oxbow Thank this.
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I know your supposed to load the engine and run it fairly hard when breaking in a new engine, but that is a bit difficult. I suppose putting it on a dyno for an hour would be the best way, but I don't know of any dynos close by. I guess we could load it up and haul it to a dyno. We could put the brakesaver on which would put a fair load on it. A long duration of that though would put our oil temperature about 235. Maybe that would be good?broke down plumber and ElmerFudpucker Thank this.
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Just load the 345 and take off to the hills. That’s plenty of load. I don’t think I would stress too much about it. Just build it and run it hard. I wouldn’t worry about a dyno for break in. Just keep idle low until you have put a few miles on it.broke down plumber, Deere hunter, IH9300SBA and 1 other person Thank this.
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So far so good Ox .
Oxbow Thanks this. -
That bowl is sorta close to the 160-1131. But not perfect. The 4MG and 7FB pistons have more meat at the top plus different bowls. So while compression ratio does matter that alone doesn’t mean that’s all that matters. There are 2 totally different 15.2 bowls and 14.5 bowls. The 3425 and 8785 were both designed to work with the 160-1131. The 3423 with the 4MG and 3421 with the 7FB.
You’ll have to play with the timing to get it to calm down on the smoke. The 3421 were a lot worse smoke wise than the 25’s. The 8785 I couldn’t really tell a difference on the pedal but never did compare them on dynomile marker 27, Cat sdp, broke down plumber and 1 other person Thank this.
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