Ok I get that @wore out
One other thing I noticed that I originally thought was just the nature of the transfer pump, was the line from the filter to the injection pump pulses like crazy, the line from the transfer pump to the filter doesnt pulse at all. Would a leaking b&p cause that?
Found some wear on the race in the timing advance. The weights all looked good.
When I get it back together I want to get it meter timed, what should it be set at for better performance?
Would OR8587 Nozzles work with the 15.2 pistons?
92 KW 3406 3ZJ issues
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Zacko, May 4, 2024.
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Every says 1/4 to 1/2 a hole on flywheel which if you like it to smother out and not run that’s great. If you have an 11 degree cam you want no more than 14.0 at a 1000 start screw at 1260 RPM.
9.5 degree cam you want stay at 12.5 at 1000 start screw at 1260.
I’d turn the screws in 1 turn for sure. The 3ZJ the screws just didn’t make the difference in the seat like the older pumps. You can get the screws out too far and the rack goes past full travel and shuts the scroll port off a bit. That’s usually around 6. Not knowing what’s been done prior I say better safe than sorry. 750 on pyro says you most likely don’t have an air flow problem but……pull the turbo out of exhaust housing and be sure. Do a proper pressure test on the entire charge air side. From turbo housing to head. A leak at your afrc won’t let your rack make full travel. The boost psi means nothing if it has a leak. Takes a big big leak to affect psi. I’m gonna bet it’s going out your air dryer
Everyone you talk to says advanced timing makes it a horse. It doesn’t. I had a kid insisting he wanted his a half hole advanced. I set his Dad’s up and 2 other guys he hails litter with. He called me every day. Bought a turbo then another. I finally got enough and told him just pin time it till i get home. Bout a hour later he calls me back says well you were right I can stay right with the others now. Half hole was 17.5 on meter. Rattled just wouldn’t take fuel. 14 is barely not getting the bolt to start. I’ve been on here a long time. You can look and see my opinions change. They changed each time I dealt myself a hard lesson. I’m sure I have a few more to goLast edited: May 27, 2024
Deere hunter, broke down plumber, Feedman and 1 other person Thank this. -
Awesome, thank you sir!
I will do a boost leak test next as well.
Changed the governor spring and found I did have a torn AFC diaphragm. While the governor housing was off I looked at the rack screws and they were pretty much maxed, I did turn them in one.
The shop tested my nozzles this morning and they said all of them were good. I was waiting to hear if there was a bad one before I pulled barrels and plungers to investigate that.
Would switching to the OR8785 nozzles give me a bump in power without going crazy? I would assume I'd back the pump way down once I installed them and slowly turn it up if necessary.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
Zac -
No they will not match your pistons. They will make heat and smoke. To run them you need to switch to a 160-1131 piston which is 14.5:1. Do not confuse this with a 7FB piston which is also 14.5:1 but has a completely different bowl and has more meat from the top ring land to top of piston than the 160-1131. The nozzles won’t interchange either as the timing and spray angle for each are different. No where have I ever found flow charts on CAT nozzles. I can find gensets that run the 160-1131 piston with 3425’s as well as 8785. For the most part the rack is at 6.0mm for 580 verses 3 and some change. What I’m saying is just cause the nozzle is rated for more horse doesn’t mean it flows more. Nozzles, pistons, and timing need to match or it’s gonna smoke and be hard to deal with in one form or another. Again another place I used to think some improvement was to be made was 8785 nozzles. They may flow more, but I can’t find any info proving 1 way or another. I’d like to do a few dyno pulls and only change nozzles between say the 3425 and 8785. If your wanting more fuel have yours honed is your best bet. But beware they are only gonna open 1 hole so it’s gonna be hot on 1 side.
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That's exactly the info I was looking for! Thank you sir. I dont want to buy parts I don't need. I've been reading everything I can find on how to improve this engine.
I'll slam it back together tomorrow and test it with the advance all good and new diaphragm as well as the governor spring. I'm not looking for a race truck by any means but I want a reasonably hot unit.
From what you've said it seems like a 3ZJ isnt the 3406 to to build for power. Or at least I need a different combination of parts first.wore out Thanks this. -
We have an 89 Pete that come with a 4MG that was absolute #### from day one. Just a lemon. It finally vented the the block in 93. We put a brand new at the time 3ZJ in it. Complete set up. All we used was the A/C compressor and alternator off the other one. That truck is a 15 over with 3.55 rears on tall 24’s. From day one it’s been a hoss. Almost legend around home. Never turned it up etc.
My point is the 3ZJ is in my opinion as good as they get. If it’s right it oughta suit ya. And if you want a monster you have a good base to start from too -
Well that's excellent to hear, if I can get this truck to run anything like that I'll be thrilled. We are planning to change the trans to something with an better od, it runs down the highway now at 1750-1850 which I hate. 4.10s, 11r24.5s, and only one od in the top gear.
Last edited: May 28, 2024
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Got everything reassembled tonight, rebuilt advance, new afrc diaphragm and seals, new governor spring, set it to just pin timed for now. Gonna fire it up in the morning and see how it runs. Next steps will be testing for air leaks in the piping, and then pulling the b&p's to inspect and hopefully just lap.
The shop that tested the nozzles said they all were good, popping at 2300psi. I thought the C pumps ran at higher pressures than that? -
Several different specs depending on the nozzle itself
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Ok, just wasn't sure. Power is definitely back, the AFC diaphragm working obviously was a big part of that. It revs out and was still pulling at 2200 when I got out of it. Did a valve set and most of the intakes were slightly tight.
Still seems to have a slight miss/hesitation throughout the rpm range. I'm planning to pull the barrels and plungers next I guess.
What are the things to inspect on them once they are out? Gonna do one at a time. I'm debating just replacing all 6 just because I don't know the history of it.
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