95 T800 A/C question

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by sorefoot, Jul 27, 2024.

  1. sorefoot

    sorefoot Bobtail Member

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    Mar 31, 2018
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    I have a 95 T800 with an N14 that is only used seasonally. I should’ve checked the A/C over the winter but didn’t and it’s not working now. I put gauges on it and there was no pressure. Obviously I should’ve hooked a vacuum pump up but I tried to add some refrigerant to see if the pump would kick on.

    Not only did the pump not kick on but it also didn’t have power going to the clutch.

    The truck had to leave and I didn’t have time to keep messing with it but it’s the wife driving so I need to get it figured out. The truck is about 2 hours from me so I’ll probably be making a trip up there to see what I can do once I get a chance. I’ll take my vacuum pump to see if it holds some vacuum. Obviously it has a leak of some sort but I’m hoping it’s slow enough to get us through the season. I’ve done some A/C work on cars but I’m not an expert.

    I looked for a fuse in the kick panel under the dash but didn’t see one labeled “A/C”. Is it going to be an accessory fuse or am I looking in the wrong place? Also, I’m guessing there’s a relay somewhere?

    I noticed two switches/sensors on the high side line. I’m assuming one is a high pressure cut-off for the compressor and the other is a switch for the fan? Is there a low pressure switch somewhere, I looked but didn’t see anything?

    If I provide power to the single wire on the compressor, it should kick on, right? The compressor is only 4(ish) years old but the truck only runs around 5k miles a year so it doesn’t have many miles on it.

    Is the ECM involved with the A/C system at all? Is there anywhere to get an actual wiring diagram for this thing?

    Thank you!
     
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  3. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    How much refrigerant did you put in? The system needs to see a certain amount of static pressure before the switches close and allow power through to the clutch.

    A/C on something of that vintage is pretty basic. A couple pressure switches and a thermostatic switch in the evaporator core. I'd first verify there's enough static pressure in the system. If its good I'd work back from the clutch coil until I found power and go from there.
     
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  4. sorefoot

    sorefoot Bobtail Member

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    Mar 31, 2018
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    I just had the can hooked up to the low side through my gauge set. It was about 60° outside air temp so the low side gauge was reading around 60psi. Normally the pump would cycle and pull in refrigerant and then the high side would start showing a reading but the pump never cycled and wasn’t getting power.
     
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  5. aaron1995

    aaron1995 Bobtail Member

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    If your compressor isn’t running, 60 psi static pressure doesn’t mean a whole lot, need to get the compressor pumping first then hook your gauge up.
    Top of the radiator driver side there is a hardline that goes down to the condenser with one or two pressure switches on it. The switch is two wire, so if you jump it with a paper clip that will bypass it and possibly turn the compressor on.
    Looking at the system through the low side gauge only is not ideal but I understand the situation.
    If it’s a sleeper truck, system capacity is roughly 4.5 lbs. about 3.7 or so if a day cab.
     
  6. aaron1995

    aaron1995 Bobtail Member

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    The ecm is not involved to my knowledge, as soon as you turn the HVAC blower fan switch on in the cab, it should supply power to the ac clutch. Assuming refrigerant level is correct, and no switches are defective.
     
  7. Inderjit

    Inderjit Heavy Load Member

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    There could be a binary switch near the heater near the firewall or two separate switches. There will also be a fan pressure switch in the high pressure line near the A/C pump. There is a relay and a fuse in the fuse panel for the a/c system. Its all analogue wiring no ECU's involved.
     
  8. sorefoot

    sorefoot Bobtail Member

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    Mar 31, 2018
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    Thanks. There’s two switches there and they both look like two wire switches. I’m assuming one is a high pressure cutout and the other is the switch for the fan clutch? I (hopefully) added a picture of the two switches.

    I have a guage set with both high and low side. There was 60psi on the low side because that’s the side I opened to start charging the system. Maybe I should have opened both the high and low, got some refrigerant in both sides, closed the high side and then tried turning on the compressor?

    Do you know of there is a low pressure switch somewhere or maybe the high pressure switch has a low end cutout as well?

    Its a day cab. I was figuring around 3.5 so I was pretty close.
     

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  9. aaron1995

    aaron1995 Bobtail Member

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    The manifold gauges should display pressure as soon as you hook them up, even without opening them.
    In this picture the one on the right is the low pressure switch. That will shut the compressor clutch off if the refrigerant pressure is too low.
     
  10. sorefoot

    sorefoot Bobtail Member

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    They will show pressure, if there’s any pressure to show. The system was empty which is why the HP side wasn’t showing anything and the LP side was just showing the pressure from the can I was charging from.

    If that’s a low pressure cut off, I’m guessing that’s my problem. I’m surprised there’s a low pressure cut off on the High Pressure side though.
     
  11. little cat 500

    little cat 500 Road Train Member

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    run a hot wire to clutch see if any good
     
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