97 FLD120, Eaton 8 Speed Clutch Replacement Help

I've got a 97 FLD120 powered by an N14 with an Eaton 8 speed. The throwout bearing grenaded so I'm working on replacing the clutch, the issue is I can't get the trans off no matter what I do. I started the day making sure that the top and bottom gap were within an eighth of each other. Gave up and ended the day with some square stock behind the front-rear wheel and a come along pulling the jack, the most I've been able to get it apart is an inch and a half. I've made sure nothing is connected other than the input shaft, no air lines or electrical, and the trans cooler is off. I think the crossbar on the cutch is getting caught on pieces of the throw out bearing but I'm not too sure. I'm halfway convinced that the only way I'm getting this thing off is to undo the clutch bolts and pull the clutch and trans out together. Any tips on getting this thing split?
Sorry if there's some improper terminology, and thanks ahead of time.

 

More than likely you'll have to disconnect the clutch linkage so the clutch forks can rotate out of the release bearing. I've always just zipped the clutch bolts out and dropped the clutch with the transmission but that's just my preference.

 

You might find that the pocket bearing for the input shaft has froze to the transmission shaft and come out of the flywheel. If that’s the case, rotating the engine and removing the cluch housing bolts to bring the clutch down with the tranny may be the only way to remove it.

On a side note: make sure the new pocket bearing fits tight in the flywheel.

And I’ve started installing the transmission with the clutch hanging on it and bolting up the clutch after the transmission is bolted up. It removes the chance of fighting the transmission into the clutch for hours because the disks aren’t lined up perfect. But I also have a good engine turning tool that mounts on the flywheel.

 

Just thinking too if your input shaft splines are worn in deep the discs could be binding up and not sliding off the shaft.

 

Winner Winner chicken dinner

 

Yep, pretty sure on FLD they release arm had be removed from cross shaft because it won't fully release/hits transmission case.

 

I've got a new flywheel out for delivery as of typing this, there aren't any decent machine shops around me that would do it for less than the cost of a new one. I was planning on installing the clutch the way you mentioned, don't have an alignment tool or any helping hands, so figured that was the best way to go about it.

Wish I had known that yesterday, makes a whole lot more sense reading it.

Is there a spec for input shaft wear? I know it's pretty common to replace the input shaft with the clutch, but not required. Is there anyway to check it out and see if I need a replacement?
Thanks all

 

We replace the input shaft the you can feel the wear on the splines or wear the pocket bearing rides.

 

Any wear on input shaft would warrant replacement. Wear on the splines is pretty evident usually or can be felt as a catch with your fingernail. Another common wear area on input shaft is the spigot or aka part of shaft that rides in pilot bearing. If shaft is worn best bet is to get a clutch install kit. Comes with shaft, bearings, front bearing cover, clutch brake etc.
Ouch on flywheel. My local Napa will turn a 15.5" flywheel for $35.00 and all the local trans/gear shops for about the same. One guy will turn it for free while you wait if you buy your clutch off him.

 

The trans is out, thanks all. I'll be checking it over today, it was too wet and cold out yesterday for me to keep working. Now to pull the flywheel, drop the pan and replace the rear main seal and pan gasket. What would wear of the spigot look like, a mushroomed end or missing material and a loose fit in the bearing. Unfortunately, I put my new pilot bearing in the freezer to make it easier to install so I don't think I can use it to test fit and measure wear. Again, thank you all so much.