Well, when I first got my truck the A/C would blow pretty dang cold at idle during the day.
Now, only 3 months later, it blows warm/barely cool air at idle and when I'm driving down the road It still only blows cool air, nothing nearly as cold as it used too.
I'm wondering if the coolant needs to be recharged or is it just the hot temps? I've made sure my oil and coolant levels are good. I'm in Florida and sitting in the TA parking lot it read 104*F where I was at, my air was on max cold and blowing full blast and it was still about 78*F inside my truck, maybe more. It was hot enough to where I would sweat even if I'm not moving.
I was thinking about buying one of those recharge kits, the little canister of 134 coolant for a/c systems.
What do y'all think?
2007 Pete 379exhd with C-15 pre-DPF (if this matters)
A/C not cooling
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by DrtyDiesel, Aug 6, 2013.
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sounds like you have a leak.
Get the one with the leak dye in it. Will help you find any issues.DrtyDiesel Thanks this. -
Also at night when I'm idling the a/c blows cold just fine. So I'm thinking its either the hot temps during the day or something like that. Wanted to ask y'all's opinion first.
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Well I bought a recharge kit and hooked it up to my low pressure side. Put a little freon inside then checked the pressure.
Pressure was reading normal for the outside air temp, and I didn't want to over charge the system. It started to blow cold air for a few minutes but then it went back to cool/warm air. Ill call maintenance tomorrow, see if they will let me go through the shop at a TA or petro. -
Sounds like a slow leak. Make sure you tell the shop you added and show them the can if you still have it. Some of those off the shelf cans have leak sealer mixed in that will damage or plug up the shop's a/c machine. Adding a leak dye is a good idea if the leak is too slow to be found by a pressure test, visual inspection or leak sniffer.
DrtyDiesel Thanks this. -
sounds to me like its the outside temp. what pressure are you running at? for florida you should be around 55psi on the low side. and that leak dye and sealer while they work great for small issues over time can cause more issues than worth. IE random pump lock ups which leads to belts burned up. We just had that happened to one of hour trucks while driver was sleeping. he burnt the belts off it which killed the charging system and woke up to a dead truck.so just be carefull fix the issue and have the system pumped and recharged if you even have a problem. I know I am sitting in Ok and had to bump 10 more psi in my system to stay kool. 10 psi and now I am froze out.....
DrtyDiesel Thanks this. -
Well I plugged in the can and the psi read at 35, pumped in freon until I was at 55psi. Let it sit for a minute and when the compressor kicked in it ran the pressure up to about 65psi then dropped down to 40psi after the compressor turned off.
Now after sleeping in the truck, I noticed a few minutes ago when I woke up my air in the sleeper was blowing warm and humid air, but the air in the cab is blowing cold.
I made sure I had the sleeper set to max cold and a/c was turned on. I had a fan blowing on me plus the sleeper air vents pointed at me and I still had trouble sleeping, had to sleep an extra hour and 30 minutes since I woke up at 2 and felt like a zombie.
I just hope they don't tell me "we'll have it looked at during your next service", because that's about 10,800 miles from now.
I will say my truck drinks coolant and oil like they're free. I added two gallons of oil yesterday and sometimes I have to add two gallons if coolant about once a week. -
Well after driving down the road a few hours, my truck feels like an ice box. So I guess it was just the weather. I feel dumb now lol, but I'm glad I asked y'all.
I still think my ac should blow a little
Cooler than it has been at idle but oh well.
I idle at 800rpm at night, should I idle higher in warm weather to pull more air through the condenser? -
On average R-134A will blow 30 degrees colder than the outside air temp.
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