The only reason to not use 1 inch of rubber between the rack and frame is that in case of an accident the rubber will compress at the front end putting extra strain on the rear u-bolts that may break or shear. That is why a hard plastic was recommended to me for mounting both below and above the legs.
The thick rubber may cut down on vibration transmitted from the frame to the rack but how much is questionable.
A headache rack installation with espar
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by badvik_83, Apr 4, 2023.
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I don't claim to know anything about it. I didn't install the rack.. I was just trying to help the original poster out with mountingcke Thanks this.
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Here is another shot. So 1, 2 and possibly 3 are good. 4 doesn't have space there, the battery box goes inside the frame a bit. And it's mounted to the frame, so no chance to move it. An idea came to me oto use some kind of clamps or straps, like fuel tank straps(smaller of course). It's not an ideal option but if I use two or three of them, that should be good considering their back location. What do you think?
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if there is enough space in position 1 that a ubolt could fit... then i would mount a u bolt there as well as position 2.. on the other side you could install 2 u bolts on position 3 to give it the same holding power if there was space in position 4... i wouldnt see a problem with that... if you could relocate that battery box or whatever it is, to outside of the the frame that would work to.. but it would be quite a big job most likely.
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If, you haven't already bought a used unit, or if you are just starting to look, then there is one option you haven't considered yet, and that is side mounted brackets that bolt through the frame. At that point, it's just a matter of bolts inside that battery box by cutting out a space to access the nuts.
Here's a link: Side Mount Headache Rack Mount Kit
And a picture:
![[IMG]](proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dctarp.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F04%2FSK4-SIDE-MOUNT-KIT.png&hash=b5ac0af2e3a172827389e189046ece26)
The one thing you will have to do, if they are not already there, is to either do yourself, or have someone do it for you, drill the side holes. That should alleviate your problem with a standard legged headache rack. The other option if you're buying is to order it with the frame rail side mounting feet, so you don't need a conversion like the one above. These are usually on 3 door boxes, but I imagine if you're buying new, you could order a standard one with that kind of mounting option. The foot of which would look something like this:
Blue jeans, cke, D.Tibbitt and 4 others Thank this. -
Exactly what I was going to suggest. Either that or get a headache rack that's built with a piece of angle iron on each side so that the rack secures with bolts into the frame's web rather than with u-bolts.
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Those are awesome. Probably want to check yearly for amy aluminum cracking, but very much i like
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Circled in red, framed in green, what is this? Can you delete it?
If so, the headache rack SHOULD (??) be able to use ubolts where the blue lines are drawn, depending on interference at positions 1 and 4.
Actually, looking at it more
May be able to get away with installing bolts at 1,2,3, then loosening all bolts on battery pack to get # 4 in there.
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I didn't notice it before, but that almost looks like a spare tire holding rack or a rack for holding a hydraulic tank. Good eye.cke Thanks this.
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All 4 of mine went beside the battery box no problem, I have the same set up. Your battery box may be a little off side. Maybe loosen it up and move it a bit?
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