ABS Malfunction Light

It needs to cycle on and off when you start the truck. If it cycles off and on during operation it is not a problem. If it comes on and STAYS on during braking and operation then it requires service

 

Depends on how big of a Richard Cranium the creeper cop is or if he got any nookie the night before

 

It'll put you out of service so yeah a big deal.

 

Read my post in your other thread.

 

Mine comes on all the time when its icy. If i go to stop and my tag axle wheels lock for even a second it throws a code. Gotta cycle the truck off for about 10 mins ans it resets and wont come back for weeks. Also does.it if i catch a tag while lifted on a bump or something and only one side spins

So unless it stays on. Just ignore it.

 

It's often little more than the sensor getting dirty, or knocked out of alignment. Inspect it and see if either is the case. Also, sometimes you can back up 10 feet or so, pull forward another 20 and then cycle the ignition. Worst case, unplug the #### thing until you get to a repair shop.

 

I thought that if you put in a maintenance request and you're headed to a shop to get it fixed then they won't give you a ticket.

 

It is not an OOS. It is a warning though. As mentioned, under normal operation , when key is turned to ON position, it should come on for 2-3 seconds, then go off. That shows the bulb is working. If it stays on, that indicates a malfunction. You can turn key ON -OFF-ON-OFF-ON, wait a couple seconds, it should give you a blink code. Like 4 blinks, pause, 2 blinks. It should repeat the code 2-3 times. You can also repeat the procedure to double check the code. Make a note. Give it to the Shop. You can also look up the codes yourself. Usually it’s just a sensor that has slipped out and away from the tone ring on a wheel hub. Follow the small wire going into the hub. It’s plugged into the sensor. You can push it back in using a wooden stick, long flat end steel extension, anything that won’t damage the plug. Be careful using a screwdriver for instance. Though that’s usually what I always used. If the sensor keeps backing out, it may just have a broken or loose bracket, or more likely a rusted metal sleeve used to hold it in place. It may also be caused by a loose wheel end. Often the first sign. Best to make sure the wheel end isn’t loose, or bearings going bad. Good idea to check oil hubs for proper level,if so equipped, also can look for oil leaking on backside of drum/wheel/tire. If you do push a sensor back in and up against the tone ring, then you drive it 5 mph, the light should then go out to show that it’s fixed. If not, diagnose it again, might get the same code, might get a different code, and have more than just one problem. Must drive over 3-5 mph to turn light off, each time to check your repair. It’s usually caused by a loose or backed out sensor. If it keeps happening, you need to know why. Loose bearing is a serious issue. Other common problem is a broken wire leading to the sensor. They can usually be changed without taking the wheel off. It’s tricky, but can be done. You can always listen to hear the system cycling, when keys turned on, 4 clicks, one at each hub. That tells you the abs is working. When the lights stuck on, often the system is disabled. Brakes still work, but anti-lock may be disabled. Take care, especially on slick roads, and if loaded lightly. Brakes may easily lock up, and cause trailer to skid, slide, etc. Hope that helps. Safety First.