AC Compressor clutch locked up-how to check if metal is in the system?

Hi all. I was driving and the AC got warm and I started to hear a squeal when I got it the next light. Pulled over and opened the hood and I could see smoke coming from the AC clutch. Tried to get the belt off but motor was so hot I just cut it. Turned the AC on yesterday and verified that the clutch enhanced and was able to turn the pulley by hand. It would catch and get rough every few turns.
How do I check if their is metal in the systems

 

Sounds like a bearing in the compressor?

 

bearing in clutch is junk more than likely

 

Shouldn’t be metal in the system with clutch or bearing failure. If you replace the whole compressor It will need a new dryer/ filter and need to be vac’d out and new oil and freon charged anyway. Vac should pull out any crap that filter didn't get. If only clutch assembly is replaced and system stays sealed you should still be golden.

 

I like to flush the condenser and evaporator with mineral spirits and blow gun with rubber nozzle. I've gathered just a vacuum does not get all the fine particles out. Auto parts sells a a flush can with air fittings for this job. I'd even go so far as replacing all seals to the condenser, evaporator, expansion valve(s-bunk) if replacing the the compressor. Check your rubber lined lines. If old I'd replace them too. It's aggravating to visit the ac prematurely (1-3 years). It's not that much time and money. Less than doing it later.

 

I ordered a new Sanden compressor,dryer,expansion valves,and seals for the lines. Is the oil that comes with the compressor sufficient?

 

I ordered all of that minus the flush kit. Going to order one I saw on Amazon. Thanks!

 

If its just the clutch or bearing in the clutch then there'll be no metal in the A/C system.

 

If the system has been flushed completly out then the system may call for a few more oz’s over what compressor needs. If you just disconnect the lines, replace comp and dryer, vac and charge then not usually. BUT make sure to see if new drier needs oil or not. Some do some don’t. Some come in box pre filled.
We recently removed the dash in a 2014 Camaro to replace leaking evap. New one called for 2 oz of oil added. Drier needed 1-1/2 oz. Left compressor alone on that one.

 

If there’s any trash in the system it’ll probably look like black oil. I doubt it’s contaminated. You can check by removing the line from firewall to compressor. Get a quart of a/c flush, pour it through the line. See if it’s contaminated. If it is, you’ll know the whole system is contaminated. If not you can pour some into the line from compressor to condenser. I’d leave it connected at condenser, because it’s easy to destroy it taking the lines off. Carefully lay the line onto the ground. Pour some into the line. Be sure to keep it below the connection at the condenser, so it doesn’t flow into the condenser. Then drain it back out. If it’s not contaminated, You’re done, systems clean. If it’s contaminated, check the line from condenser to dryer the same way. If it’s contaminated you know for sure the condenser is too. If not, it’s your call to replace the condenser or take your chances. They can’t be completely flushed due to the tube header/fin design. It’s not a fully closed loop. Might be able to take it off, fill with flush and shake it out, a few times, but It’ll never get completely cleaned short of having it steamed like a CAC full of oil. Just not practical. If the systems contaminated you have to remove all the lines mentioned anyways. Change dryer anyways. After flushing each line, it’s recommended to use spray nitrogen (not air) through them to clear the flush out, to avoid adding moisture to the system. You’d also need to flush the lines going into through and out of the evaporators also. The evaporators are the same as the condenser. They’re impossible to get completely clean. I replaced everything on my Truck. Except the evaporators. I flushed them at least 20 times each. Never did get them completely clear. Still had contamination. Wish I would have just replaced both. I also used compressed air to clear the flush out, not nitrogen. Systems getting vacuumed down anyways. The vacuum doesn’t remove any trash only moisture. It doesn’t vacuum or suction the moisture out. It does create a vacuum, the vacuum causes the moisture to boil away. The reality is this. Chances are you’re system isn’t totally contaminated. Usually only the line coming off the compressor is contaminated if anything. I’d just flush those lines, checking for black contamination. Either way, even if you find contamination, flush them clean and call it good. Put new compressor, dryer, expansion valve. Pull a vacuum and charge it up. Should be going for at least 2-3 years. Probably longer. The York style TSI compressors are notorious for contamination. Happens almost every time one goes bad. Usually the clutch goes bad, causes excessive heat, and destroys the bearing. The clutch is always the culprit. Nobody flushed the line, and the new one only lasts about a year if that. Made that mistake about 7 times before learning about what’s called “Black Death”. Sandens compressors are much much better. I’m surprised the clutch even went bad on yours. Abiut 10+ years ago Sandens came out with a fused clutch. If the compressor seizes up, it blows the fuse, and allows the clutch to still spin in idler mode. This avoids further damage, and needing to short belt the alternator. They cost about $50 more. I’m about to buy my third one in 10 years. I accidentally overfilled the first one when it was just a couple years old. Second one lasted 7+ years. Both times because of the fused clutch, it not only kept spinning, but helps avoid the chance of contamination, because excess Heat basically disengages the clutch. I’ve heard that all Sandens are equipped with the new fused clutch. I’m not sure I believe that. They typically have a black pully, instead of a shiny pully. Might want to be sure the new one has the fuse. It will help avoid contamination in the future. Good Luck. I have part numbers if needed. Just need your original Sanden part number for reference.