AC compressor straight wired?

refrigerant. I don't have a great grasp on how AC systems work, I know the engine fan always cuts on periodically when the AC systems running, and I don't fully understand why, would take me a bit to read through articles and understand the mechanics, and the main question for here was if the compressor is running all the time, and the engine fan is running all the time, would that still damage the compressor if coolant and refrigerant levels are kept proper. Sometimes the air seems to get so cold that it will freeze up in The Exchange box and the blower motor while sounding like it's still running will not push air through the system. At other times it seems like the lines outside the engine literally freeze up the condensation that's in the air of the engine cab... can see it freezing on the lines. Between the mechanics not wanted to do more than they have to do, a shop manager who's trying to keep things as cheap as he can, and a very well-intentioned owner not being able to differentiate what really needs to be done from people's opinions, I'm trying to figure out how best to approach this and what things are really worried about before the really hot months get here in North Carolina

 

got ya. Had a feeling that it was a little bit more complicated than what the shop told me, " just switch it on when you want AC and when you don't cut it and the engine fan manual switch off". The original malfunction with the a pads, is that when it was parked and with the hydraulic pump for the feed augers engaged and at 1200 rpm, it wouldn't cycle the engine fan on... engine water temperature would get up to 230 240... and with that malfunction among other things it was impossible to tell whether the apads was malfunctioning, if there was a short or cross wire somewhere, if there was truly a low refrigerant condition...just a mess. Rather than sift through and eliminate those possibilities, they bypassed apads completely... but now neither the AC compressor or the engine fan will engage and disengage automatically, I literally have to control the clutch for both of them. aggravating

 

Thanks everybody for your replies and info, very helpful. Just got done talking with the shop manager and he thinks I'm an idiot for wanting to put the compressor on off cycle switch in a more convenient place so the driver can manually switch it. It does get so cold that the airflow literally seizes up, at which point I know the compressor needs to be turned off. If you don't turn it back on relatively quickly very moist humid air shoots out inside of the cab starts to feel like a dirty moldy jungle. Not fun when your shifts 12 hours. Was going to put the cycle switch directly below and to the left of the hi\low gear switch on the gear shifter, would never even have to take my hand off the gear shifter. Now I have to reach under the dash next to the starter switch to turn it off and on....ugh. might do it anyway, just wire it myself. The couple or three months convenience might just be worth getting fired over. God knows most of it else hasn't. I was hoping this would be the driving job to last me the rest of my life, pickings aren't terribly easy when you got monocular (one eye) vision, but honestly hated the idea of not doing something I know I'd love doing just because of what people think.
ps. Same guy tells me they've had to do this to other trucks, and the other guys never have a problem... wonder if they know that means the refrigerant level is to the point the compressor is barely able to keep the air cool and that the compressors probably won't last the rest of the summer...