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Adding a Trolley Brake?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009.

  1. May 19, 2009 #1
    7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    Nov 29, 2007
    Jacksonville, AR
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    CRST ordered my truck ('02 9200i, 72" Condo, N-14) and 29 others without a trolley brake. I'm puzzled as to why, but more than that is how hard would it be to add one myself? Where would I tap into the line for incoming and out going air supplies? Thanks
     
    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    #1
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  3. May 19, 2009 #2
    25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    Some company regularly ordered tractors without the trolley handle, they didn't want drivers using them in jackknife situations.

    You would need the plumbing and wiring for the service brake and brake lights.

    Honestly, unless you can do it reasonably, I'd forego it; it's something that could be messed up with unhooking lines, it may require more than you figure on when you start it.
     
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    #2
  4. May 19, 2009 #3
    crazzy448

    crazzy448 Light Load Member

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    May 3, 2009
    panhandle wva
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    Alot of fleet company hat trolly valve because driver use them instaed of there truck brakes. It was told to me "use the trolly valve so my brake will last longer and I dont pay for trailer repairs" I was truly told that.I guess if it was my dollars I'd do the same
     
    crazzy448, May 19, 2009
    crazzy448, May 19, 2009
    #3
  5. May 19, 2009 #4
    25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    CRST has their own trailers, so that wasn't the issue, no owner op would have purchased a new tractor without the trolley valve.

    The issue was safety , the last thing you want to do when a trailer is coming around on you in slick conditions is to lock the wheels on the trailer.
     
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    #4
  7. May 19, 2009 #5
    7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

    1,186
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    Nov 29, 2007
    Jacksonville, AR
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    Looks to be very reasaonable ($$$) with only 2 check valves, some line and I'm sure I can find a good used valve from a totaled truck so cost shouldn't be a big factor. Biggest thing is determining exactly where to cut into the lines, but I have a printout of the air-system with a trolley included. Just wondered if anyone else had done this and if they had learned any tricks to do it. I'll have to compare the following pics and track the proper lines to cut into.
     

    Attached Files:

    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    #5
  8. May 19, 2009 #6
    25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    Good luck with it, then. You need to look at the same truck basically with the valve and try to do it in a similar fashion, hope that the hoses haven't gotten too brittle. and also that they haven't swelled on the inside, might make things difficult.
     
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    25(2)+2, May 19, 2009
    #6
  9. May 19, 2009 #7
    7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    Nov 29, 2007
    Jacksonville, AR
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    I completely agree with this method. Many of the lines look to be new but if they are brittle then it's a good idea for me to replace them anyway.
     
    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    7mouths2feed, May 19, 2009
    #7
  10. May 20, 2009 #8
    FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY

    FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY Light Load Member

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    Apr 28, 2009
    Cincinnati, ohio
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    it ain't too bad to do, pick supply up for trolly valve from park brake dash valve at s2 port on park brake dash valve, may have to T into it, the delivery hose from hand valve will go to delivery 2 port of the check valve,, u will need a double check valve thier. double check valve part number should be BW 280809N the double check keeps air from back feeding into the foot valve when trolley valve pulled and from back feeding into trolley valve when foot valve depressed i am trying to upload a pic
     
    FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY, May 20, 2009
    FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY, May 20, 2009
    #8
    7mouths2feed Thanks this.
  11. May 20, 2009 #9
    black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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    the last thing you want to do when a trailer is coming around on you in slick conditions is to lock the wheels on the trailer.[/quote]

    agreed 25(2)+2: I have some very unscientific experience with this:biggrin_255:. Several years ago i had given my notice with a company, gives the "i dont give a crap attitude". Anyway i would be going down road and yank on trolley brake and almost every time the trailer would slide to the side. I would thing the trailer wheels sliding would want to straigten truck out, but based on that experience, i would have to say no. And it was not a one time trial.:biggrin_25515:. As i said before almost every time the trailer would slide out to a side till i released brakes. Just my experience...
     
    black_dog106, May 20, 2009
    black_dog106, May 20, 2009
    #9
  12. Dec 4, 2013 #10
    rtregester

    rtregester Bobtail Member

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    Nov 6, 2013
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    Hand brakes are great when duping a frame-less end dump. You can hold trailer brakes with hand brake , then as dump goes up tractor is pulled backward. When dump is almost at the top you can gently let trailer hand off and loads pushes you forward away from pile, parking brakes are not gentle when your bed is 35 ft in the air
     
    rtregester, Dec 4, 2013
    rtregester, Dec 4, 2013
    #10
    JPenn Thanks this.
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