Adjust valves now or wait?

Im putting a used 12.7 Detroit in my truck because the one that was in it locked up a couple weeks ago. The truck is a 96 Pete 379 with a 12.7 ddecIII, but the engine I'm putting in it is a 99 12.7 ddecIV out of another 379. I've been looking it over while its still out and replacing parts that are in need of replacing on both engines with new and reusing parts if they are good on one or the other engine (mainly accessory items). The used engine has been sitting for a couple of years and I haven't personally heard it run prior to getting it. Today I checked the intake and exhaust valve clearances and now I need some advice. Either a couple of my intake valves are adjusted way too tight or maybe they aren't seating all the way right now for some reason (rust, carbon, etc.). Most of the rest of the intake valves are tighter than spec while all of the exhaust valves are looser than spec. Also, all the rocker arms say reman on them if that makes a difference either way.

Measurements
Intake spec is .203mm (tight means there is no gap)
cyl 1 tight tight
cyl 2 .102 .229
cyl 3 .203 tight
cyl 4 .127 .178
cyl 5 .127 .228
cyl 6 .152 .305

Exhaust spec is .660mm
cyl 1 .813 .838
cyl 2 .864 .838
cyl 3 .711 .762
cyl 4 .760 .760
cyl 5 .711 .736
cyl 6 .762 .838


Should I at least back the 3 valves off a little bit prior to attempting to start the truck? Should I leave everything alone until the truck has ran for a while since its been sitting for so long? Should I adjust them all back to spec now and recheck them after its been ran for a while? I also don't have an injector height tool to adjust those so I will probably leave them all as is for now.

I'm trying to get this engine in the truck by the end of the week so I don't wear out my welcome in the shop I'm working on it in. The old engine has a hole in the block, so its coming out. Its sitting in the truck all unhooked and waiting for me to undo the mounts and lift it out. I'm not going to pull the head off to inspect the valve seats and valves due to time restraints either. Any advice will be appreciated.

 

That is kind of my mindset to a point. Since its in a 379, the valve cover comes off fairly easily with it in the truck though. Its good to know that the intake valve clearance tightening is normal though. I guess my initial theory was a little backwards about possibly having the tight ones sticking open slightly and I should be more concerned with the one intake valve that is .305 for that. After I posted it I started to realize I had it backwards

I have to change the oil pan because it has a hole in it. I plan to change the rod and main bearings if it isn't obvious that they have already been changed since I don't know the history on the engine. Should I be looking for anything else while the oil pan is off?

This is the first time I've been inside a Detroit. Most of the stuff I work on is gas and occasionally I'll have to work on my 5.9 Cummins, but I'm not afraid to learn. I had planned to rebuild the original engine I'm pulling out to learn it a little better, but when it decided to lock up, it also put a hole in the block so I'll have to find another one to do that now. I was trying to limp it along until spring, but it had other plans. Thanks for the input.

 

Either way, I plan to check it after the first oil change which I will be doing after the first week I run with it, regardless of how many miles it is. Would it be a safe assumption that the exhaust valves may have been set too loose the last time they were set since they are all looser than spec unless they aren't fully seating? Would there be any reason to do that intentionally if they did? I've had to do that hammer tap to the top of the valve trick a few times on gas engines while doing leakdown tests. Thanks for reminding me.

 

That's what I figured, but wanted to ask just in case. I also ordered an injector height tool, but it might not come in until the engine is back in the truck. If that's the case, I'll check that after the first week.