Air bubbles in Davco 382 - hard starting series 60
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by allan5oh, Nov 2, 2013.
Page 10 of 11
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Oh it's getting better!
Took apart the cam gear drive and realized I didn't need to. You cannot change the timing with just the cam timing gear apart. There's not enough room in the gear cover. You simply cannot do it. So I took the fan off and the cover for the adjustable gear thinking if I back it off I can get enough slack to move the gear. Nope. The only way I can do this is by removing the adjustable gear hub but leaving the gear. But how do I remove just the hub? Already tried grease and a suction cup. If I cannot get it out, the whole front needs to come apart again. I really don't want to do that. Truck will be the victim of unfortunate circumstance if I have to. -
When mine was checked an it was checked twice nothing wrong with or cam or timing the last guy had the truck 2 weeks charged me 7400.00 put a set of liners in it said they were bypassing oil which it wasn't cause the truck runs the same as before
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The whole front cover has to come off to excess the gears
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Anyways I have a good idea on how to get it out. I managed to get it to move 1/8" inch at times, if I can modify a very small flat screwdriver to be more of a pry bar I should be able to get behind it through the hole and pull it back. -
Pissed around with it all day today. Didn't get a new cam bolt that was a mistake because that probably throws off the readings. Stock spec for lift is .257 to .299 I either get about .260 or .308 depending on the tooth. Unfortunately I don't know originally where it was I somehow lost my original marks, so I either tried 1 and 2 teeth advanced or 2 and 3. Going to put the bolt back on and piss around a little more tomorrow see if I can get it closer to the high side, I'm sure torqueing that ####### changes the timing a bit. I definitely notice it making more dynamic compression cranking it over by hand.
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When the head is off, the cam gear retainer can slide out the back enough to replace the o-ring between it and cover. You have to really fiddle with it to do it but it can be moved while replacing that o-ring. I realize your head is on but thought I would provide at least one scenario as to why the gears are usually marked during an in frame. I should also point out I'm referring to the 12.7 up to DDECIV. Its not the football o-ring but the one inside it.
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SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!
I was dealing with a lot of issues that seemed to add up. The biggest one was incorrect cam timing, two teeth out. I'm also very sure the cam was out when I bought the truck. The truck now starts great, but when it's cold it will have a miss/smoke 5 seconds after starting. The BOI(beginning of injection) goes from 20 to 5, and that coincides exactly with the miss. Either it's air remaining in the system(likely) or someone goofed with the ECM to get it to start better with the cam out of time. Leon did mention there were some changes in the ECM.
Overall the engine is much smoother. Idle fuel consumption went from .6 gallons/hr to .25, and at 900 rpms high idle went from 1.0 to .6. It takes off from a stop much smoother, less herky jerky. It also doesn't stink at idle like it used to. The problem is with the cam out of time when I bought it I was used to this. Jake boost also went from about 12-14 to well over 20 bobtailing. I'd imagine 25 wouldn't be out of the question with a full load. The truck also coasts much smoother, the cam out of time causes pumping losses like a jake brake. -
Glad you got it fixed. I would say that you are right that you bought it out of time since it was the same before and after. Not knowing what was done prior or by whom really makes diagnosing a problem like that harder. I really felt it was cam timing when I read the thread.
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I have no problem taking lumps for this, I'm not a stubborn know-it-all that can do nothing wrong. I could care less about being right or wrong, but rather I care about the truck running correctly.
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