Double Dear, great story! That's the way I got my trucks, Ive never bought a truck from a dealer, Ive always done the ole school hand shake and worked for what I wanted. Ive got some really good trucks and a few that have made my life hard. Been doing this since the 80's and it works. the biggest thing is now a days people are less trusting and want the money now, its harder to find a deal like that anymore and seems everyone wants a new shinny truck. My trucks are all in good shape a bit old but they pass a 120day inspection and keep right on rolling. Ive sold 2 of my trucks the same way, got burned on one, but when the times comes for the next one I'll try it again, everyone should have a chance at the gold ring! I'm looking to purchase a truck here in a few months but hate to say it this one will becoming from a dealer, This one gonna be my last one and after this many years I want to be the first one to fart in the seat! LOL
An Easy Way to Get Your OWN TRUCK !
Discussion in 'Trucker Taxes and Truck Financing' started by DoubleDear, Jan 31, 2009.
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Can u tell ME who are good brokers are who do you pull for?
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My trucks are leased to Landstar
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This may sound ignorant but I am wanting to know, lets say you are the seller and finance a local driver. What if a couple months into the deal there is a major breakdown (blown motor, rears, tranny, etc) or an accident. Driver isn't gonna have the money to pay or repair what then? Seems like you would be out of your money plus out of your truck, is there anyway that a seller can protect him/her self from this happening?
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Not really. You can be kept on as a lien holder but that can be another can of worms. I used to buy and sell trucks from the o/o where I used to dispatch, paid cash and would sometimes fiancé for the guys , out of about 8 I got burned once
jdiesel3406 Thanks this. -
The thing that many miss is that leasing and other financing truck purchases for buyers are somewhat regulated in each states. YOU should have a lawyer look at the contract or have the seller buy it outright and let the bank deal with the issues that can and often pop up.jdiesel3406 Thanks this. -
You can stay as a lienholder and you can require that he/she keeps collision and comprehensive (full cover) insurance on their truck. You can ask them to list you as both a certificate holder and additional insured. As a certificate holder the insurance company will give you at least a couple weeks notice before they cancel their insurance for any reason and as an additional insured you can submit a claim yourself without the owner of the truck.
That's how my brother got rid of his 12 stingers when he decided to quit. Three of them came back and he came out of retirement but decided to stay small this time. It worked for him.
Now about a breakdown I have no idea. An extended warranty maybe?
I second the comment about having a lawyer look at the contract, though. My brother did it himself that way but one of his sons in law has a used auto dealer and another one is an attorney, so he had people with knowledge to advise him. I guess a lawyer wouldn't charge a lot for that.Deecutta and jdiesel3406 Thank this. -
I followed the steps that were recommended at the beginning of this post. I was able to obtain a deal for a 2000 Freightliner Century class with a local seller. The engine has been overhauled. I had a mechanic come out and inspect the truck it has no fault or check engine codes. After the inspection, the mechanic recommended a clutch to be replaced and he notice a small transmission leak. I would like to know is there a way to check to see if the vehicle title is clean before signing the contract with the seller? Also, is this still considered a good deal for $11,000 and if so, what services would be recommended before putting the truck on the road? Thanks in advance!
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As for the title, the only thing I would have is a contractual obligation on the sellers part that ensures there is a clean title or he foots the cost on everything that cost you to get that truck.Deecutta Thanks this. -
Try a rigdig report, like a Carfax report for cars. Costs about 40.00 but can save thousands.
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