Any Questions for a Driver Trainer for Maverick?

not a problem. i give a copy of it to the instructors to be when i do the mentoring at Maverick. Of course i write, "COPY" across the front and back of the page so the lazy ones cant simply white out the name and truck number. Thank you for serving

 

Just a couple of observances from the past few weeks that not only I noticed, but so did my student............Jackson, Tn. Gerdau. Stock steel, no blocks in between the bundles. You know the one where you are supposed to wrap the bundles each at least one time with chains, the outside bundles twice? Drivers securing with straps instead of chains, and not wrapping the bundles. ANGLE IRON sharp edges guys?!? and then not even bothering to pad tarp the sharp edges with the canvas tarps before spreading the vinyl tarps over them, hmmmmmmm the steel ripped right through the plastic you had to put over the steel so what do you think is going to happen to the vinyl tarps. Coils using short beveled timbers instead of long boards.........what if the coil should shift as you roll down the road and it falls off the boards????? lining the coil racks with the coil pads with the boards rather than across the boards. Crane operator bumps the pad and where does it go? straight down on top of the coil racks rather than providing a barrier between the coil and the beveled timber. We all know how patient the crane operators are and they're all more than happy to swing the coil completely off the trailer so you can fix what should have been done properly in the first place. Tarping leaving a gap on one side or the other between the bottom of the tarp and the top of the trailer. this week alone have seen anywhere from 2 inches to almost a foot. WHY EVEN BOTHER TARPING IT? AND THE EXCESS TARP DOES NOT GET STRETCHED out on the trailer like a kite tail. Ever got a tarp from a driver and the edge of the tarp is frazzled or worn thin? that's how it happens................. take your bare hand and slap the non skid floor of your trailer repeatedly as fast as you can at at least 60 miles per hour. Tarps cant bleed but your hand will. why I cant turn off the bold print on this computer, I don't know. Tailgated by another Maverick driver------ Your OnGuard had to be screaming at you while you were behind us, student on board wanted to help you fix the "blowed out" part of your tarp, so we pull in the rest area and as you fix the "blowed out" portion of the tarp, I tuck the 6 d-ring long kite tail under the tarp and you look at me like I have two heads and admit you've been doing it that way for 5 years?!? I guarantee you didn't do it that way while you were in the barn or with your instructor. apologies for the bold print but come on you all. You want to tarp like tmc? go work for em and please don't look at me like I have two heads when I ask how your tarps are when were swapping loads and when you say, " they're good", I respond, "good because you're keeping them.

 

Enjoy and just vented a bit with the last entry. Lol

 

Tarping 101: 1. Load and secure product properly. 2. Center the tarp atop the load. 3. Tack down 4 corners of the tarp 4. Build the walls. 5. Close the rear. 6. Close the front. 7 walk around the trailer with a handful of bungees looking for anywhere you might want to add an additional pinch point. The above is what I tell all of my students anytime we are using our Steel Tarps (4 foot drop tarps) Some helpful hints for a better looking tarp job. The 4 bungees you use to tack the 4 corners of the tarp are the ONLY ones that should be pulled way forward, or way rearward. AND THEY ARE ONLY IN PLACE TEPORARILY. they are removed when closing the front and rear of the tarp. They keep the sides of the tarp tight front to rear while you are putting the bungees on the sides or "walls" if you will of your tarp job. I always hang a bungee from each d-ring closest to the rubrail before I even begin tacking down the sides. The bungees you tighten on the walls of your tarp should pull slightly forward or rearward. When closing the front or rear of your tarp opposite the side where all your excess is laying atop the trailer, with one hand, reach towards the center of the trailer and grab the D-ring closest to the center of the tarp and pull it toward the rubrail while with your other hand you push the excess tarp under the corner you are creating, I call it, "pull and punch". The excess tarp not used to cover the product should be pushed underneath the tarp, towards the product. IT DOES NOT GET STRETCHED OUT OVER THE TRAILER, OR "KITE TAILED" NOR DOES IT GET ROLLED UP AND PINNED DOWN WITH A 4" STRAP!!!