Anyone with a 4CK cat engine?

Take a long 3/8" bolt with a good amount of shoulder that is not threaded, cut the threads off, bevel the cut end a bit, and you have your pin.

 

Do I take the gear off of the pump and will it have marks inside it to retime it I got the motor at top dead getting a bolt now

 

Go back to @wore out post he explains it.

You need to start with getting the bolt in the flywheel.

 

Precision is key when it comes to timing. It is critical to have the crank pin timed to ensure you have true TDC. The valves on #1 will be loose thru several degrees of engine rotation and that can really wreak havoc with trying to get things correct if you're just winging it.

 

I got it Re times it was out of wack bad can anyone on here tell me what kind of nozzles I need?

 

For your serial number it shows the following as stock:
7W-7041 new, OR-3587 remanufactured.

There are four other options shown in SIS:

7W-7040 (OR-3586)
7W-7042 (OR-3588)
7W-7043 (OR-3589)
7W-7044 (OR-3590)

I am sure there are other options as well. You need to let @wore out guide you on which to use, especially if it has been converted from PEEC to manual.

 

@wore out any advice

 

He'll reply when he gets a chance.

 

It would depend on piston. I can’t remember if yours was a 425 or a 350. If it is a 425 it will have a 15.2 piston that is a 7E-0539. So use the 3587. If it’s a 350 it’s gonna use a 160-1131 piston at 14.5 so use the 3590. If it’s a 460 use the 3590.

Wuick little example here piston on left is a 7E-0539 piston on right is a 9Y-9889. The left is a C piston at 15.2:1 compression the right is a 4MG B piston at 15.2:1. Now people assume that 15.2:1 is what sets the nozzle so they will put the c piston in a b as an upgrade. Or they will run 3423 nozzles in a c because that’s what the 15.2:1 4MG used. But if you’ll look the top ring land on right is way thicker. And that’s why a 7FB and a 4MG will stand 18 to 21 degrees of timing. And why the 7E-0539 will not. It will crack every crown in it. Smoke and not get out of its own way. It’s designed to run at 11 degrees no more than 14 at a 1000. So it’s not compression your matching but actual bowl size and slope of the crown. Cause naturally a nozzle designed to spray at 18 degrees is gonna miss at 11 to 14. That’s the difference in right and not. Last and won’t. Power and economy and straight ####. Most would think 15.2 is 15.2 but they do not understand timing and the affects it has. And why they change it. Nozzle has to match the piston. Pump cam has to match them both. That’s why I preach when converting a peec convert what’s on it to manual and if you change the whole pump get as close as possible to factory timing or your…