are current production trucks really this badly built?

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by ad356, Jan 28, 2020.

  1. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    It’s not engineered for 80k max. I’m the second owner of the truck I have now. For the first 245k miles it ran the northwest pulling a flatbed at 105k gross. I bought it and pulled the lift axle off and started running 80k gross. As far as the engine is concerned it had one sensor replaced before I got it and since I’ve had it I’ve done a valve adjustment and that’s it. I have a 510 Paccar with an 18spd manual. What I don’t understand is if your boss wants autos why isn’t KW pushing him to try the 12spd Paccar? At least then the engine and transmission may speak to each other better.
     
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  3. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    Nothing can replace the speed and responsiveness of a manual.
     
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  5. Oor

    Oor Road Train Member

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    How can it possibly be more reliable when they just added a whole bunch more stuff that can break?

    Engine\transmission data link, clutch warning sensor, engine brake sensor, GPS data link, decent mode, etc.

    Now start thinking about all the points of failure in all that stuff.

    Gimme a manual anyday. Those break too, but not when they get wet.
     
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  7. stwik

    stwik Road Train Member

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    Im currently running a 2019 New Cascadia Condo

    DD15 505 / 13-speed manually shifted Eaton

    it’s been the most reliable truck I’ve ever driven... it’s also the newest currently sitting at a little less than 65000 miles
     
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  8. Brandt

    Brandt Road Train Member

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    We get so much advantage. Never having to shift again. The extra room in truck from not having shifter on the floor is nice. The clutch is like $4,500 on the DT-12. I have not driven one with high miles to see how they hold up. I had 370,000 miles of first one and it only messed up one time by not going into 1 gear. All I did was switch it out of gear and back in, it was good to go again.

    It has so many advantages. In rush hour traffic, it's really shines. The Descent Mode saves your regular brakes and keep the cool. Because is has so much more engine braking power. In a manual transmission I would never go downhill at 2,100 RPMs. The DT-12 that's normal and how it's programed to drop a gear or two. It will go into neutral when it can to save fuel. When the truck has Adaptive Cruse control. It can turn on engine brakes automatically. It can downshift the DT-12 transmission and slow the truck to keep distance

    The Descent Mode is just cool I think, not everyone know how to use it. You set the truck for the speed you want to go downhill. The transmission will downshift and turn on the engine brakes to hold the speed you want. When you have dry roads you can go downhill faster without touching the brakes.
     
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  9. spindrift

    spindrift Road Train Member

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    I've often wondered how many people who write it, actually believe it has a "g".
     
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  10. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    I've forgot to flip the range back down on my 18, you should notice that real quick when you try to take off again though.
     
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  11. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    You do realize whether it's an auto or manual trans has as much to do with jaking at 2100 rpms as your dog taking a crap and a goldfish in China dying? I can run my old cat and 18 speed up to 2k rpm with the jakes, most people think an e model cat shouldn't be above 1600 rpm. Dropping into neutral to save fuel is stupid, also an immediate failure on your driving test if you do it with a manual. 4,500 for just the clutch, I can get remanned tranny and new clutch for 7k.
     
  12. Moose1958

    Moose1958 Road Train Member

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    I'm in that camp I rather have a manual. I just always felt like I was more in control. I did, however, drive the XY auto-shift tranny for several of my final years. I do know it is nice to not be shifting, but still, in the end, I felt more comfortable with my manual. I have not driven this tranny you speak of. This is the problem I have with it. First, I am not comfortable with it going into neutral on its own with no input from the driver. This goes back to the fact these trannys are not actual automatics. They are 10-speed manuals with auto shifters. You let that sucker go into neutral and then for some reason it can't get back into any gear you the driver might find yourself in a bad situation that might end in your death. My other problem with all this new tech is as the previous poster said, it adds to the stuff that can strand you. I understand emissions and all that. I don't understand all this high tech today in these areas. I guess it is because overall it saves money for the carriers. I guess I am getting so old I am just set in my ways.
     
  13. Brandt

    Brandt Road Train Member

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    Most trucks with manual transmission are governor set to 1,800 RPMs. Getting them to 2,100 is not so easy. The auto shift will go right to 2,100 if you turn on stage 3 engine brake. Giving you more braking power then a manual. If you can get the manual to 2,100 it will be the same. The DT-12 can hit 2,100 2,200 RPMs in every gear. As the truck slows down and hit 1,750 RPMs the transmission will drop another gear go back up to 2,100 and keep slowing the truck. It will do that for every gear if you want.

    You save you knees from not shift gears. I know you can slip the gears.
     
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  14. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    Volvo/Mack was the first one to go into neutral I believe, the rest are playing catch up now. I imagine it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what the fuel economy gain is because of it but it all plays a part when you have these new trucks in the 8’s and 9’s. Mack no longer offers a manual and is spec’ing the mDrive for all applications.

    The only reason there would be an 1800 rpm governor is if the owner chooses to have their ecm programmed that way. It has nothing to do with the manual transmission.
     
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  15. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I still can't comprehend how going into neutral saves fuel. If your foot is off the go-pedal, you are telling the ECM you want idle speed. How does the ECM try and achieve idle speed? It cuts the fuel off to try and get the engine RPM back to idle.

    Really, the way I see it, coasting in neutral burns MORE fuel because without the inertia of the driveline spinning the engine over, the engine needs to inject fuel in order to maintain idle speed. Whereas coasting in gear with zero throttle input requires zero fuel to turn the engine over since the engine is being driven by the driveline.
     
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