Are my front bearings grease lubricated?

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by dajain, Oct 22, 2024.

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  1. dajain

    dajain Light Load Member

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    Hey guys and gals. I know this might be a stupid question, but here it goes anyways.

    I have a '99 FLD120 which I'm doing a lot of repairs to and I'm used to seeing oil covers for the front wheel bearings, but This truck doesn't have the oil cap on lt. The picture is the beginning of the repairs I've been doing. She does have almost 1.3 million on her and she has obviously been neglected for a long time. That is the front leaf spring mount that is worn out.

    Instead, it has a 3.5" six sided cover where the oil cover should be. Sounds like a metal cover when you tap on it. I would image it spins off with the right size socket. I have a set of service manuals for the truck and can't find this cap anywhere in those service manuals. The books only address oil filled hubs.

    2 questions I guess.
    1. Would this mean my front spindles are grease lubricated?
    2. Could this possibly mean they can be greased by a grease zert on the end of the spindle like a Dexter trailer spindle?

    I have a socket coming, but this is bugging me.
    If anyone has experience with these types of front bearing covers, please let me know.
    Thanks!
     

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  3. 062

    062 Road Train Member

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    You got your money’s worth out of that spring hanger.
    1. It sounds like a grease hub
    2. Never seen it done. Don’t know if it will help with lubrication.
    @Big Road Skateboard @Goodysnap
     
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  4. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Those were "supposed" sealed units. If a seal went(under warranty)they replaced the whole assembly.
     
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  5. dajain

    dajain Light Load Member

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    So, not supposed to be opened then?
    With this many miles on the truck, makes me wonder how long they will last.

    Should I just let them be if there is no sign of leakage?
     
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  6. dajain

    dajain Light Load Member

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    Once I get the other parts in and installed, I have a short run for it. Only 66 miles.
    Maybe I'll put a heat gun on it after the short drive and see what the hub temps are.
    If they read normal, maybe I should just let them be. :cool:
     
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  7. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Just change the seal and convert to oil hub. Did that with most of them because it was easier than getting to a dealer for the whole assembly.
     
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  8. dajain

    dajain Light Load Member

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    This is the only info I can find on this type of hub and it really doesn't even address the hub itself...


    Maybe that will be in the plans the next time I have $2000 to spend on the old girl. I would much more prefer the oil hubs but this repair session is getting pricey already. lol
    She's no longer used commercially so she doesn't get run real hard.
     
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  9. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Think they were on the air tech(?) axle. Long time ago I had them.
     
  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I had the same on my 99. I like them myself. Got them on my trailer. No more leaky seals. They use a specific type of grease only. It’s expensive. Just clean, repack like on an old car. The procedure isn’t exact. After packing bearings, covering the spindle, covering inside of hub so nothings dry. You add some to the hubcap. Holding it at a 45 degree angle, add some extra. If I recall a bit less than about half full is sufficient. Example I saw was kind of vague. The grease is very thin. Too bad, but you can’t just add a zerk fitting, like a boat trailer buddy bearing kit. That would completely fill the system. I myself would replace the bearings and races. Even better get a new hub kit. Hub, with races already installed, and bearings. Doesn’t cost much more. I doubt it would be pre packed. Just cover everything with a layer of grease, pack bearings good, add the extra in hub cap. New seal, gasket, torque to spec. Be sure to check with dial indicator. I think .002-.003 is ideal. Check for yourself. I think it’s .001-.004. Anyway here’s a part # for the oil. Chevron Delo #235253. Shell and I’m sure others make an equivalent. Best prices found online. Hard to find in stock anywhere. Hard to find a mechanic that even knows much about it. Local Trailer Shop suggested using plain bearing grease. That’s scary. This grease is really amazing stuff. It’s super thin yet stays in place. Never heard what the recommended service schedule should be. Ran mine almost 1 million without problems. I imagine regular wheel bearing grease would need repacking very often. Got info from Penske Mechanics. They run grease on all their trailers to avoid leaking seals. Other service info was found on Timken website. They have an illustration of how much extra to put in hub cap before installation. I think it’s great myself. Avoids a wheel seal leak and soaking brake linings while OTR. Some claim oil runs cooler. I don’t know. Only problems were in the beginning, trailers we’re having a problem with outer bearing rust. Cause was the design. Fix was a new type hub, with larger outer bearing. Old style was going dry, especially when not in use for extended times. Source for that info was found on Trailer Manufacturer’s Convention meeting from about 20 years ago. Apparently in Canada they had a rash of wheels flying off of trailers when grease was first introduced. I first heard of it from the Guy I bought a 2001 Great Dane dry van from. He had converted it to oil, in fear of losing the wheels.
     
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  11. dajain

    dajain Light Load Member

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    The grease you are describing sounds like the same stuff for the Vulcan style wheel hubs on boat trailers. Much thicker than gear oil but thinner than regular wheel bearing grease. I actually have 2 tubes of that stuff in my refrigerator. :)

    I do know, from my many years in mining, there is a grease (a.k.a. L.S.T.O. grease) which is thick when not in use but when in use and gets warmed up, it turns into a close gear oil consistency and flows like gear oil. Works great for high impact situations but not sure how well it would do for wheel bearings..

    But there is another thing I am also questioning (info not shared yet), and I may never get the answer to this. The truck has almost 1.3 million miles on it, BUT my kingpins are within specs regarding free play. Would it be a safe assumption that the kingpins have been replaced and the hubs were properly serviced when they were done? I can' imaging the kingpins are still within specs with this many miles on the truck. Especially with how worn the leaf spring hanger was worn (Picture earlier in the thread). This is why I'm thinking I'll see what the temps reach on this 66 mile trip.
     
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