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Bendix AD-IP Air Dryer question..

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Hanadarko, Dec 23, 2012.

Page 5 of 7
  1. Dec 28, 2012 #41
    Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Here is a basic digram with an AD-SP. The check valve for the secondary tank is a sc-pr valve.
     

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    Heavyd, Dec 28, 2012
    Heavyd, Dec 28, 2012
    #41
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  3. Dec 29, 2012 #42
    Gear head

    Gear head Medium Load Member

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    Still think it's that o-ring in that inlet on dryer seen it to many times.
     
    Gear head, Dec 29, 2012
    Gear head, Dec 29, 2012
    #42
  4. Dec 29, 2012 #43
    Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Of course this could still be it.

    Well, two days in a row I ran the air PSI up to 119 (just before the cut out) and shut the engine off.
    Return each day in the AM and see the following:

    Green Needle (labeled FRONT) = 90psi
    Orange Needle (labeled REAR) = 0psi

    The gauge is hooked up correctly - that I verified this AM.

    The tank directly under/behind the driver seat is tied to the GREEN needle.
    The reward tank is tied to the ORANGE needle.

    What I think they mean is FRONT and REAR tanks not primary/secondary air.
    I suspect the orange needle is actually my PRIMARY AIR and the green needle is my secondary AIR

    ...this is where some of my confusion comes from. If they just had the dam gauge labeled PRI/SEC I would be
    all set. But Front and Rear dont help much.
     
    Hanadarko, Dec 29, 2012
    Hanadarko, Dec 29, 2012
    #43
  5. Dec 29, 2012 #44
    Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    I would try that sc-pr valve first if you think the pressure is still dropping too much after a purge. It being emptied over night could be from anything.
     
    Heavyd, Dec 29, 2012
    Heavyd, Dec 29, 2012
    #44
  7. Dec 30, 2012 #45
    Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    I agree but this being emptied thing is new......so I presume and hope there is a connection
     
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    #45
  8. Dec 30, 2012 #46
    67dude

    67dude Bobtail Member

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    Have you tried to hook the discharge line from the compressor to shop air? Doing this will let you hear leaks with out the noise of the engine. I have found on older KW the stratoflex hose to the wet tank will seep air through the hose. Hook up to shop air and spray with soapy water. This will make compressor cycle often.
     
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    #46
    Hanadarko Thanks this.
  9. Dec 30, 2012 #47
    Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Well I dont have a shop...nor a compressor...so I am limited - although this is a great idea.

    The one odd thing is if I ran the RPM to 1300...held it there, let the system build PSI - then sneeze...it will not keep sneezing.
    Then, after a few moments - I can then return the engine back to 600 idle and let it sit...it will not keep sneezing either.

    Only if she idles will it sneeze and re-sneeze.

    I have some new parts on the way. I may end up replacing several items simply due to age and frustration.
     
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    #47
  10. Dec 30, 2012 #48
    67dude

    67dude Bobtail Member

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    I would by pass the dryer and retest.
     
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    #48
    Hanadarko Thanks this.
  11. Dec 30, 2012 #49
    Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    This is a good idea and one I hope to try FIRST.
    But its a lofty 9F outside here this morning....so I dont see that happening.

    Can I just link the two lines together (Supply/Output) or will I need a coupling?
    I'm not familiar with the gender or even style of these fittings since I haven't disconnected them yet.
     
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    Hanadarko, Dec 30, 2012
    #49
  12. Dec 30, 2012 #50
    67dude

    67dude Bobtail Member

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    More than likely they are #10 . It would be best if you could get brass coupling, but in a pinch I have seen guys take the fitting out of the dryer and use it as a coupler one side is #10 and one side is 1/2 pipe. It's will screw together to get you home. Also pinch the small signal line off to the dryer for your test.Check to see if the compessor is cycling normal. You can watch the gauges to verify. This test will tell you which way to go if you know you don't have any air leaks on the truck first.
     
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    67dude, Dec 30, 2012
    #50
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