I’m looking for opinions (based on experience) on what truck/engine/tranny/gear ratio to pull my new trailer. I’m in the process of going legal in this business. I’ve been pulling my own equipment for more than 10 years but I feel an expansion coming. I have clients who want me to move their equipment too. I will be hauling large back-up generators and large HVAC systems (chillers and large package units), nothing over 40’ in length or 20,000 lbs. Beyond that I will hire one of you “real truckers” I will stay in the SE.
I already have one truck and two trailers for the smaller stuff and short runs:
2011 Chevy 3500HD ext cab with hauler bed.
32’ (27+5) Cascade gooseneck 20,000 GVW
40’ (35+5) Load Max gooseneck 24,000 GVW
I’m ordering a 44’ Load Max 30,000 GVW with 14” 22lb frame, hydraulic dovetail, tandem 15k Dexter elec/Hyd, Air ride, 72” spread axles, 12K hydraulic jacks, with all the goodies…15K winch, tool boxes, lumber racks chain racks, 12 sliding ratchets, 20 welded d-rings. Etc etc. Finally my dream trailer! Curb weight estimated by Load Max at 10,500lbs (yes I priced PJ and BigTex)
Now I need the truck to pull my new trailer safely and comfortably. I don’t for see trips longer than three days. I’m looking at low mileage (under 80k miles) used prior to 2003 up to 40k in price to avoid debt, and finding them plentiful.
I’ve been looking at Peterbuilt 330’s, Freightliner FL60’s and FL70’s, Chevy/GMC 5500’s and a few International 4700’s. All with GVW between 26,000 and 33,000. All with flatbeds or hauler beds. All extended cab or crew cab. My problem is I don’t know what engine/tranny/gear ratios to look for and more importantly which ones to avoid. I am aware of the notorious Mercedes-Allison datalink problem but that’s about it. I prefer automatic transmissions because one shoulder is built from my hip and the other is worse. I operate mostly in FL but cross into neighboring states on occasion. Not much further, so flat ground near sea level mostly. Cost to insure is a consideration too.
Any suggestions based on experience are appreciated.
Was that specific enough?TRYING to avoid the 20 follow up questions for your convenience. LOL
BEST COMBO FOR ME?
Discussion in 'Expediter and Hot Shot Trucking Forum' started by BIGZILLA, Oct 18, 2015.
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Alright guys you have somebody who is really seeking knowledge not just trying to find someone to justify adecision I already made! A little help PLEASE. I'm not familiar with any of the engines or trannies offered in these trucks.
dca Thanks this. -
I'm researching for YOU. Settle.
Automatic is my iffy point. They were never designed to last as long as a manual
I've seen FL70/80 in the field, usually 25' extensions with spudnik beds on them. 27,000+ LBS in the bed. They seem to hold up.
I mean, personally, you're already passing into CDL A territory, why not just get a real truck?
I've seen house toters that'd work great for this..Straight Stacks Thanks this. -
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Fact of the matter is I don't know much about utility trucks. But why half ### the most important part of the equation?
You can have a #####in trailer all day and all night, but if you don't have the truck with the balls to pull, might as well shine it all up and park it out front so the neighbors think your pecker is humongousStraight Stacks and truckon Thank this. -
Medium dutys are always a bad route.
Definitely rule out the topkick.
T300 with the right combo can be good.
I'd just go with a single axle class 8 personally.
Are you up to date on length laws? Having a hauler bed on the truck in FL will most likely put you over length, you can buy an annual permit for FL, but TX and MI will nail you for it.Straight Stacks Thanks this. -
I'm open to suggestions. I felt I might get a little better mileage and maneuverability with a class 6 if It hauls what I need. I work a lot with cranes replacing existing equipment. There are always plenty of other trucks and support vehicles around and not much room and a lot of my work is at hospitals, which NEVER close so maneuverability is BIG. I want to stay as small as possible but capable of doing the job.
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And I'd just buy a regular flat. You wear out that loadmax in no time, and the brake set up on that costs a fortune to maintain.
lots of character Thanks this. -
Class 6 often is underpowered so in turn and up getting worse mpg. Parts are harder to get and often dont last as long and are more expensive. -
I'm open to single axle class 8. Even looked at a few.
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