Best turbo for 6TS 3406e with 58’s and 6999 codes

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by 95flatglass, Jan 22, 2020.

  1. Rubber duck kw

    Rubber duck kw Road Train Member

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    Mines a 550 with the 58 injectors and 6999 injector codes, not sure on what file it has stock 550 from 97 as far as I know. That might be little much turbo for a 475.
     
    Shawn2130 Thanks this.
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  3. 95flatglass

    95flatglass Bobtail Member

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    Jan 22, 2020
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    Sorry for not replying in a while, landed a pretty good gig working with Boeing here in Charleston SC and it’s been keeping me so busy I hardly have time to think. I’m gonna go ahead and order that Borg Warner next week after my next run for them. I’ll update when I see how it does on my truck. Is this gonna be quicker spooling? Mine now is becoming quite a dog as I think the waste gate is failing and dumping my boost out before a full spool.
     
  4. 95flatglass

    95flatglass Bobtail Member

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    Jan 22, 2020
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    Ok so after talking to Andre at turbo exchange in Concord NC because of a necessity (turbo seal went) he ended up talking me into the Borg s478 for my 6TS with 58 and now 5232 codes, due to the fact they didn’t have 1.45 a/r in house. I’m able to but the bigger exhaust housing and change it myself cheaper than what they were asking but there besides the fact. Now I’m lost, over the last few weeks I got a new dampener the new turbo and when checked with a heat gun #1 cylinder was running 25* cooler then the other cylinders I put a new injector in thinking the injector was weak. No change in cylinder temperature at all still running 162* on #1 and about 190* on the other 5. Took it to a
    Local mechanic here in Charleston SC had them run a cutout test all was fine as I stood there over the mechanics shoulder. Following the turbo dampener I also heard a metal clanking began in #1, almost like as if to tap a hammer on the frame of the truck. So I pulled #1 and 2 Jakes and rockers all looked fine reran overhead all was fine there.no change in the noise. A day later I noticed what sounded like a blown head gasket leaking compression engine on the front of #1 cannot feel any leaks. Exhaust manifold looks fine no leaks. Removed all the belts no change. Very minimal blow by. The motor was in framed in September of 17 with a gold kit all 6 counterbores cut reman head, 340k miles on it now, no loss of oil pressure truck isn’t smoking anymore not using oil not pressurizing the cooling system and the reputable mechanic took a listen with a stethoscope can’t pin point the metal ping and said it doesn’t sound like a wrist pin. Sorry if this seems all over the place this just has me stumped.
     
  5. 95flatglass

    95flatglass Bobtail Member

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    Jan 22, 2020
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    Anyone ? Any help ? I’m starting to wonder if one I put the dampener on if the crank broke at the number one hole
     
  6. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    Look at your valve springs and injector springs. May have a broken one or weak one. The difference in temp on cylinders is probably from the 6999 codes your running. I never liked using those codes 5232,6999. It unbalanced the injectors it could just be for a lack of a better word fuel knock where one injector is fueling more or less than the others running those hot codes.
     
    Diesel Dave, lester and little cat 500 Thank this.
  7. 95flatglass

    95flatglass Bobtail Member

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    Jan 22, 2020
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    I appreciate it, After reading on her for countless hours I’m starting to think it’s a broken crank. I didn’t have any of these symptoms until I replaced the dampener. The more I drive it the more it’s starting to miss. It’s not pushing coolant or burning it for that. No smoke upon start up. Ripped the rockers off the other day and I’m not seeing any broken springs or anything and the truck is idling rough. The more fuel I give it, the miss goes away, but the metal on metal noise doesn’t go away. From what I can tell when I crawl under the front bumper and listen under the dampener behind the front structure it does seem to have a whine to it.
     
  8. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    Ok if crank is broke you would pretty much know it ! Oil pressure gauge would be bouncing all over the dial. Take a pry bar and see if the damper moves in and out with a clunking sound. Oil sample will definitely show excess metal in the oil. Magnet on drain plug will have excess metal on it.
     
  9. 95flatglass

    95flatglass Bobtail Member

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    Jan 22, 2020
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    Ok I’ll be running until tomorrow. Right now the oil gauge is steady with good oil pressure 65 rolling down the road. I’ll check the dampener tomorrow for play. Thanks for your I’ll let you know the outcome when I check tomorrow!
     
  10. Chubby Fly

    Chubby Fly Medium Load Member

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    hell i just pull the oil pan. takes literally like half hour. but hey, to each their own.
     
  11. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    Dont pry directly on damper. Pry on the pulley it won't take much force to move it. I'm leaning more toward bull gear bushing or even roller weights in cam gear. Has this engine ever been rebuilt ?
     
    Shawn2130 Thanks this.
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