Best turbo for 6TS 3406e with 58’s and 6999 codes

Yeah it was done about 340k ago with a gold kit reman head counterbores cut. When I replaced the dampener I had to replace the hub it sits pressed on because I couldn’t get the old one out of the dampener. I followed the torque specs that came with it from Pitts power so I’m sure that it’s installed correctly.

 

While I was sitting here this morning waiting to unload I used my winch bar and tried prying in out and up and down and there’s no movement up there, so hopefully clears the thought of a broken crank. I think I see and understand what you’re saying about the bullgear bushing being shot, and causing the rattle, but could that cause the truck to be idling horribly and having that slight miss from idle to about 800rpm?

 

The injector harness is only about a year old, but I hear ya about the injector. Once I dig into it this weekend I’ll check it out. I thought maybe the bushing in the bull gear going bad would throw off the backlash on the cam gear causing it to have a miss but I’m not a mechanic.

 

what symptoms would the bull gear cause ? On the cut out test the injector showed to be fine. Even running down the road it runs fine last turn from Charleston to SLC Utah I averaged 7.1 grossing 55k out and back. It’s the metal clanking around that’s driving me nuts. I know you’re saying fuel knock. I’ll try switching the injectors around to see if the noise follows it.

 

No I have not.

 

If it comes down to changing the bull gear: bushing what all needs to come off? I’m not home to have the manual in front of me but at a quick glance I’m seeing fan/hub dampener belt tensioner peanut cover. Am I missing something ? Also will a new front main seal be necessary at this time? The motor is a 96 year so it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to
R&R just for piece of mind. If I can get it back running smooth for the rest of this year, or until Inframe time again then I think I’ll go with a single turbo MXS and get rid of this e Block.