Big Loads - Post Photos Number 2

I had not seen it before either. But other drivers had and told us to take extra dunnage to block up that side. I think it is a forest service bridge because we have to go 4 miles out on forest service road 888 to the job site. It is only 3 pieces wide. The opposite side, also with a curb, and the center span. Only wide enough for a one lane bridge.

 

Only thing I didn't like was how hot and humid it was this morning down there.

 

Hey Skooter, your beam is shorter than mine so you probably won't get as much flexing as I do but...
I tie almost exactly the same way you do, I'm a massive proponent of cross chaining, nice job! However I have found that the way MY beam flexes allows the blocking to occasionally shift. What I do is add a "marrying" chain from the carbody (or whatever else I'm hauling) that pulls from above to directly straight down to the beam thereby applying constant pressure from beam through block to load not allowing the block to shift.
Not telling you how to do your job, just sharing some of my experience...the first time I found a shifted block it scared the #### out of me. I don't think I've ever had one shift on the flatlands, but the twists, turns, and leans in the mountains certainly will. (I'll look for a pic when I get a chance and share it)

 

The shorter beam will do it to that's why I asked if the chained to the carbody. The first time it happened to me was with a 330 Cat, I hauled it to coal country in southern Ohio lots of twisting and turning. When I got the the job my rear 10X was slid clear to the right and turned almost 90 degrees. I thought about what would have happened if that block would have come out and I ran over it for a month. The 9 axle beam I have now I actually had them weld on more D rings just to be able to do this. On smaller excavators like a 200 or 160 on a beam or long trips I would run a ratchet strap around my block and around a cross member just to make sure it stayed in place. I'm also not trying to tell you what to do skoot you seem like you're getting along real good just my save you that holy crap moment.

 

HH & JD, I greatly appreciate both of your guys advice on this. I would really like the see that pic when you can find it HH. Losing a block is one of those scenarios have gone over before also. Noticed flex on first load I haul when coming up hill and around tight corner from where loaded at and decided to redo my chains and have 6 over the axles pulling down and the rest on front and back and in middle where articulates.

Pulling this beam has made me re evaluate how I chain stuff down, and your guys and others on this forum knowledge has been a tremendous help with the unique challenges pulling a beam creates.

 

how much wt. do you save with the beam vs. a drop rail or straight deck?

 

Around 2500 on a normal lowboy with a 24ish foot deck.

 

The way I like to do it and Hammer might do it as well, I hook to a D ring then over the carbody to another D ring then you can really get a good pull on it. It helps keep the machine centered too.

 

I have never pulled a beam trailer but it sure looks like, especially on an excavator where the carbody is under the center of the load, that the weight is concentrated in such a small portion of the beam. This must be pretty hard on the trailer relative to a deck where the weight is distributed throughout the length of the tracks. I wonder what the working load limit of the hardwood blocks is. No doubt they (the blocks) let you know when you have exceeded it.

I use blocks for setting things on the rear of our lowboy over the axles, and have notched the blocks where they sit on the frame rails. This helps a bunch in keeping them in place under loader buckets and such. Perhaps it would help to keep the blocks from moving on the beam as well.

 

In Phoenix till Tuesday

Deliver Oxnard Thursday