Read your thread, and let's say I'm not a mechanic first of all, I own trucks and have had my fair share of problems with mechanical repairs in my trucking life, 27 years of it give or take. I'll be the first one to jump on the bandwagon for shoddy work if needed, but it sounds like you're giving your mechanic a bad rap, unless you told him since he was going into the engine to replace the liner to go ahead and do an inframe. If you have a hole in the liner on one cylinder in a cummins there's a good possibility you're going to have another one if not already leaking then not too far behind the first one. THey're notorious for it. I'd be willing to bet that is the root of your problems, if you're mechanically inclined pull the rest of the engine down and do an inframe and you'll probably solve your problems for a few years, if you keep the coolant ratio correct and change your water filter religiously, even that wont guarantee you wont be doing this again in a few years, but it will extend the time for to a large degree. Electrolysis loves water in a diesel, so don't put it in, use a 50/50 coolant ,extended life preferably and no matter what, change at least every two years if you don't use the truck daily, if daily i change mine yearly even extended life, cheap compared to an inframe. Or you can sell the truck as is and buy a gasoline powered truck to do the job. Good luck.
big troubles with a big cam
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by fmrbydaytkrbynight, Apr 27, 2007.
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My neighbor had his big cam engine in his pete done for around 7000 including brand new heads.
Quite the scene watching them work on it. -
we went ahead and did the inframe, and changed the oil cooler, and water pump. then added an aftermarket water filter. i have made about 200 loads with it since, and the truck runs good. wound up with about 6k in this little project. thanks
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What you probably have is a small hairline crack in the head. It does not allow oil or water to pass until the engine gets warmed up. I would have a pressure test done on it before it ruins your engine and breaks the bank at the same time.
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Oil in the water usually means a bad oil cooler element or one of the o-rings on each end. Water in the oil usually means a cracked or pinhole in a liner or bad liner o-ring at the bottom. You can check for compression in the radiator like a bad headgasket grommet by pulling the water manifold, taking the waterpump belt off, fill the block to where the water manifold bolted to the heads on and starting the engine. If there are problems, there will be bubbles coming out of the hole in the head where the water manifold bolts on that will correspond with whatever cylinder is acting up. You can also pull the pan and put pressure in the cooling system to check the liners and oil cooler. pull the 1 or 2 drain plugs from the cooler and drain the oil. Then take off the #4 areoquip hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator and pressurise the cooling system that way. Don't go over about 15 lbs. you will need a regualtor to do it right. Leave the air on it and wait for the leak to develop. It might take a little bit of a wait to get results. If the cooler is leaking water will drip out of the plugs you removed that drained the oil out of it. If you have any questions, I will try to help. I ran a few of those engines and have been through it all.
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I just saw the date on the original post, all my advice was for nought. It sounds like it got fixed 6 moths ago. Well, I was bored sitting in Dallas trying to find a load. I think I will take a nap now since there is no good work to be had...
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