Buying used truck, would this dyno report alarm you?

If im not mistaken an actuator code will set boost low. You will also lose power. Check out the garage forum as there is a thread about actuator on there.

Air purging, leak somewhere.

Id haggle a bit on price, then pm haney.

 

OK - Because a code 92 or 93 is going off doesn't mean its the actual actuator. The casing often gets cracked on these units. Replacing an actuator isn't a big deal. The parts are fairly cheap, the casing is more expensive.
The question you need to ask yourself, is do you want to be taking on a lot of downtime having these parts and God knows what else may go wrong...
Save, save, save for a better truck.

 

http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...-wheelers/212286-actuator-finally-bit-me.html

 

I don't want to hijack this thread but how is the Cat C13 engine? I'm just starting to look at trucks and I found a 2009 Peterbilt 386 with the C13 in it, the price is upper 30's and the truck looks nice with about 680k miles on just wondered opinions?

 

What are you hauling Dieselforce? What kind of weight? with over a million kilometers on the engine, I wouldnt readily jump on it.

 

dang what lots are you looking at? all the trucks I see with C-15's in them are bringing top dollar!

 

I would probably be hauling smooth bore tankers weighing about 60,000 lbs total weight so I would be plated for 80,000lbs. The truck has 662,925 miles on it

 

This thread has an interesting discussion about blow-by measurements, with not too surprising differing opinions. Hopefully someone knowledgeable will come along with the expected range expressed in CFH. I investigated the same with my dyno report, where blow-by was measured in inches (manometer). I found that less than 2" for an ACERT was considered good, less than 1" for most others is good.

Certainly the low power is going to improve when whatever's going on with the valve train is fixed and codes are cleared. Additionally you will probably find problems with the CAC/intake boots/exh gaskets/etc. that are also playing a factor at that mileage.

If you do pursue this deal, at least get the dyno repeated to verify repairs. No matter what color the engine is painted, you're gonna have to fix some stuff on an old truck.

 

Definitely do your homework. It would be a shame to take delivery of a truck that spends its time racking up bills.
Spend the money on oil samples as Ellipsoid had mentioned. I would also ask you to consider either saving for a truck that isnt so high on mileage. My first truck was a 2007 Western Star - used with only 600,000 kilometers on it (not miles). Twin 550 Cat, 18 Speed with 46 rears. I spent 72k on her - and worked in temperatures at a constant -45 on and off.
The first Two years this truck was a dream, and hardly saw a day in the shop. My payments were set at 2000/month through Daimler Finance with 20% down.
By the time I started to have problems at just over a million kilometeres, I had the money in the bank to either do a re and re, or sell her and move up to a new truck.
I honestly think my choice of first truck was crucial. Don't rush into it, and don't let anyone pressure you into it either. Its a lot harder to get your money back once the dealer has your money.
As for the truck you're looking at - the weights are fine if you're at the top end for these trucks - i'm thinking 370hp? Whats the ratio?
So many questions you need to have answered before parting with your hard earned money my friend.