Can I put detroit 12.7 ddec IV into peterbilt

A lot of time, effort & money but it can be done. Will more than likely need to rework all the engine mounts, wiring, intake plumbing, possibly exhaust too. Plus all the little things we often forget about.

Then comes the legal issue. 100% illegal so its a do at your own risk thing. Have to remember too that if you were ever to sell it, you've severely limited your buyer's market and unless its a word of mouth sale, any ad online will pretty much advertise to the world what you've done.

 

You can make it look like it yet the VIN will give it away. Glider kit VINs go like 1NKAGGGG---------

Nice work on the harness find! That's awesome!!!

 

If you had your own shop, I'm thinking more time than money doing this .there's 1000s of repowered trucks on the road legal or not there out there.

 

Why bother? If you want to throw money into an empty bottomless pit, get something already set up how you want. Maybe a glider, or any Truck with a Detroit built before 2000. Might be in a 2000, even 2001 Truck. Then rebuild the engine, trans and rears if wanted. Otherwise find something newer and better. The cheap bargain Truck is often the most expensive in the long run. Better to spend more on a reliable Truck. Better even if it means having a 3 yr. note. The payment is nothing compared to the problems you’re going to have. I understand you’re looking for an edge. I think you’re looking in the wrong direction. $22k plus $40k for driveline work. Why? $22k dn. $1000 mo. for 3-4 yrs. for a better Truck. Buy something in good condition, and keep it that way. You can spend all you want on an old Truck. It’s still an old Truck. Only worth the Bank Loan amount. Losing deal all the way around.

 

I’m always going to say a Freightliner with a 12.7. That’s really all I know. 2002 or older. Pre egr preferably. Next would be pre def. 12.7 or 14L Maybe 2006? and older. Hard part is finding one that’s not been a Fleet Truck, or neglected so bad it’s a rattle trap. Find a nice one, and parts are cheap, and easy to fix. Century or Cascadia are everywhere and cheap priced, a bit harder to fix things. That’s important when paying Shop Labor rates per hour, or ring able to fix things yourself. The FLD or a Classic especially will get about .5 mpg less than an aero Truck. You may be able to fix more things yourself though. It’s a trade off. I personally would only buy a Coronado glider with a 12.7 13 spd 355 rears. If anything besides a Classic. They’re a gamble also. Depends on who built the engine. Fitzgerald is known for slapping them together, using oddball parts, industrial engines, never know what you’re getting. Expect to replace or at least rebuild the engines. Surprisingly the worst thing to do sometimes is buying a 5 yr old Truck for half price of a new one, with 500k miles, running it 4 yrs. It will cost about the same, possibly more than a brand new one, when everything is accounted for. Repair costs, vs. higher payments, higher insurance, and comparable resale values. If you plan on running hard, might be best to buy new, or 1-2 yrs old. The newest you can afford. The right set up can get 8 mpg. Enough to almost make the payment. Definitely enough to make a higher payment add less maintenance and down time. Better resale. Buying brand new next time, Then buy new every 3 years.

 

I recently saw on Truck Paper 2023 Peterbilts with pre emissions engines for sale. They stated it was an assembled truck similar to a glider. First I have heard of someone doing this.