Can Oil Bypass Filtration system Cut my Oil Maintinance Cost?

Thanks. I know this. My engine has 855,000 miles on it . I bought it when it had 565,000. Until recently , after I changed to an Oil Spinner II , it was using a gallon about every 3500 miles . I've got almost 15,000 miles on this current change , and I've added 2 gallons , and its on full right now. This , in spite of the fact that I've had , until yesterday , a low Boost Pressure problem , that I didn't really know about , until a couple of months ago. I just knew my mileage was getting worse , and worse. It had been like that , for over a year.
The low boost was causing too rich a mixture , you know what that means.
I credit the spinner , with keeping my oil cleaner, and , as a result , using less oil.
Now that I've got the boost problem solved , I'll change oil , and filter , soon as I get home , and see what happens.
I'm currently using Rotella T-6, full synthetic.
The one question I have , is how Dog-Gone often should I change the rotor in the Oil Spinner II ?

 

Ah, but there is the rub. "the dirtier the oil the more wear". That is the purpose of bypass or centrifuge, to keep the oil cleaner so it can be used longer. How is that "propaganda"? And if you are doing regular oil sampling, then you know if the oil is staying clean or getting dirtier. Not rocket science we're dealing with here. And there are several fleets both in and out of the U.S. that have done testing on doing extended drain and using synthetic that have had good results. And how does that explain that out of 3 truck I have owned, I have extended the OEM recommended drains on each of them, used primarily conventional oil though, and have never had one that that I had to open up for a repair in less than 1 mil miles. Now that I said that, watch the one I have now throw that record off.

 

Even with spinners and changing just the oil filters, as per oil representatives recommendations, the engines filled with a very smooth jelly. We did the mains and rods at less than 200,000 miles the first time, we had about 15 trucks all the same different owners. I taped the rods and mains together, with the work order number which I kept, on a list. we went threw the change at 400,000 miles and I kept all those bearings, When it came close to the 600,000 change there was a meeting about the cost benefit, I brought in the tub of bearings, the oil usage was more than the regular oil, the fuel burnt was the same, I put out the bearings and asked the 6 people there to pick the top 10 bearings, the best , least wear. not one was the synthetic oil. These trucks all hauled wood chips 22 hours a day, 144,000 lbs over two mountains. Adding a gallon of ATF before we did the next bearing change, cleaned the engines internally. They were sold at 1.4 million miles and the hay company that bought them was still using them at 2.1.
I use synthetic oil in my loader, and in my gas vehicles, I use dyno in my Duramax. Shell Rotella.

 

80k on my oil with the Gulf Coast system, my samples come back great every time. I sample every 10k and change filters every 12k. The systems can be pricey as an initial investment but, if you are savvy and seek out the parts and install it yourself you can save a ton.

For example I bought my GCF2 housing used as a military take off, got some braided stainless line and some AN fittings from Summit Racing, fabbed a mounting bracket and I was all in at approximately $300. Here are some pics of the install:







It's a great system that gives me a lot of piece of mind by monitoring my wear metals, soot, additives etc.

I use GCF filters and participate in their analysis program.

At filter changes I add 3 gallons of make up oil, 1 that the truck is usually down between changes and 2 more to top off after draining the housing to get the filters out with no mess. Takes about 10 minutes to do that.

You cannot go wrong with a set up like mine.

 

http://www.puradyn.com/applications/trucking.html

 

Wow. There has to be a lot more to this than we are being told. The synthetic caused a smooth jelly to magically appear? You are then saying that there was no substantive oil sampling done to see that the oil was thickening before it became jelly? And that alone flies in the face of all the data analysis regarding Noack volatility rates (burn off leading to thickening or "jelly" situation) between conventional and synthetic. Synthetics win that one every time it is tried.

It is realistic, when things are monitored properly, to come to the conclusion that there was no real cost benefit to using synthetics, and that there was no appreciable difference in wear characteristics, but to outright state that synthetics caused a "smooth jelly" is a bit of a stretch. And that synthetics actually caused more wear? You might want to take your anecdotal situation to the folks at the Bob Is The Oil Guy website. There are a lot professional tribologists there that could figure out what was really going on. But being as you stated, they are going to have a field day with you. Like I said, there has to be more to the story than is being told. I think the bearings got mislabeled as to which engine they came from or someone set the conditions right to try and prove a negative. Either way, I smell a rat.

 

I'm running an OPS with a 10 in spin on filter I change the OPS filter and pull a sample every 25K miles and change the main engine filter every 2nd OPS filter change.. every 50K miles my samples come back good well over 100 K miles.
Last I heard the OPS was $625 dunno what it is now.
The OPS also uses less than a gallon when changing the bypass filter.

 

I also use the OPS Ecopure. I have 125,00 miles on current oil. Engine has 860,000 miles on it, and compression is like new. I only use a gallon of oil every 15,000 miles. OPS is the best in my opinion. People that don't believe in bypass filtration, just don't think outside the box, or study.

 

You caught me it was a big conspiracy we poured in Jello to get the engines full of it , and put bearings from Cats to, get the bad looking bearings the oil samples that were taken were, Well I do not know they took most of those.
What I do know is that not one of the owner operators, used synthetics after that, so we must have tricked them all.
Not every situation is a conspiracy, in the situation I was involved with synthetics were a failure, in every way, maybe flatlanders would have better luck. Personally I would rather see the oil changed more often, than trying to get every mile posible with some chemist being the judge of when to change the oil.

 

It isn't about always extending the drains to obscene lengths. It is also about the reduced burn off rate of synthetics, the increased resistance to molecule shearing with subsequent viscosity loss, and the ability of getting oil to the top of the engine quicker on a cold start. There are a myriad of reasons that some of us use synthetics. Just because some nincompoop did not know how to do regular oil analysis and took the stuff way beyond what they should have and had problems, i.e. "jellied" it up, is not a very good indictment against the product. It just shows what a moron can accomplish. I only extend my drains by about 25% over the OEM recommended interval. That is my call, as that is the length that makes me still feel comfortable and the oil samples show some life left. TBN has depleted to about half, give or take, at that interval, and that is where I feel comfortable. My particular engine, I broke it in with conventional, switched to synthetics for a while, ran a couple of times with conventional again and found it ran smoother with the synthetic, so went back to it. And since I can get Delo 400LE 5w40 synthetic at Wally World for a good price, it is cost effective to do so. I have never been into the trying to take an oil to 100,000 or more just to gain bragging rights that I did it. The max I have ever run any oil has been 30,000 miles, and I am not at that length with the engine I have now.