Can Oil Bypass Filtration system Cut my Oil Maintinance Cost?

I have a 2002 C-15 (6nz). I change the oil every 20k miles . I go 15k miles before I add a gallon of oil. So usually I add 2 gallons between changes. Of course, if I didn't change the oil at 20k , it would still need grease and maybe some filters.

So, how much are you saving, after filter and greasing and oil analysis, by not changing oil. Does anybody know the annual savings.

. At $1250 / year for 5 full service oil changes, I am not worried about it. And I like that clean oil.

On the other hand , maybe that JohnP3 is just trying to trick us into changing our oil more often than necessary so he and his Canadian buddies can make all that big oil sands money . Talkin' about jello and all. Maybe I'll get one of those spinner things and go 500k miles. That'll show 'em.



But to each his own .

 

I like using a bypass filter to keep the oil cleaner, but still do not go much over 20-25K oil changes. Like some, I like clean, good oil running around in there. My comfort level, and oil sampling has me a the 20-25000 mile mark as my comfort level. At that distance I have used about a half gallon of oil and the TBN level of the oil has dropped approximately in half. I have no desire to play in the "I am taking my oil changes to 300,000 miles" sandbox. I have no grief either, with those who do. The only problem I have with any of this is how some of the folks who do go for some pretty wild extended drains also turn it into their religious calling to try and convince everyone else that to not the same thing is tantamount to insanity. In other words, you true salvation lies in only going for extended drains, and to never drain any oil before it's time.

But before those that poo poo the guys who are extending their drains, and say Rah, Rah to my comment regarding some in the extended drain crowd, some of you who like changing at 10-15K mile intervals show the same religious fervor and arrogance in criticizing anyone who might not do it the way you do. We all can find what works for us and live with that. Those that get their jollies from seeing how long they can go without an oil change, go for it. Those that want to change their oil almost every couple weeks, if that floats your boat, have at it.

 

About these guys that get 300,000+ on drains...if the samples come back good why not? What makes you decide to change early if the samples are still good?

 

As for the "Jellying", Maybe he used semi synthetic and not full synthetic. Also, if it was gelling on the walls of the engine, the sample could have shown good oil if the jelly didn't come out although i would assume the sample would show something.

 

Because I can. Because I want to. And because I am not into this to try and "prove" to someone that I can go 300,000 miles. If they want to, that is cool and their choice. If I don't want to, the same applies. I am not "wasting" anything that is a problem for someone else. It is my money to chose, and no oil is wasted because all oil is recycled.

 

When they were doing the tests of the synthetic oil, the cost of the oil sample was more than the price of a drop and go oil change, from memory it was in the $50.00 range, 36 Liters of oil, plus the cost of the filter. They changed the filters, and cleaned the spinners, regularly. in the 15,000 mile range. and did oil samples. When they started the experament I thought it was a great idea and would prove that superior oil would give superior results. I was amazed at the wear on the bearings, and the jelly in the engine, The bearings may have gone with no one noticing but anouther customer, use to ask for his bearings back, taped in a strip, lower mains and upper rods, all marked, an apprentice, who was not busy taped the first set together, on a unit using the synthetic oil, to show the customer that was not involved in the test but had the exactly the same truck doing the exact same job, the superior results.
Adding up the costs, of the oil sampling, and the higher costs of the oil, you could change the oil a lot more often than I ever recommended, for the same cost.
Dyno oil will tell you when it is time to change it, after an oil change, the engine will not burn any oil for the first 1/2 of it's maximum life. If you check the oil every day and when it starts using oil mark it down, double that milage and it is the time to change the oil. The older the engine the the shorter the interval.
The oil in a modern engine is used a lot more than it was in the older units, it is used more as a coolant, than it ever was before except in the 2 cycle Detroits.
I was taught that an oil change is the cheapest overhaul, you will not need, and no one has ever showed me differently.

 

I run a pair of NTZ AL-29's. I use Mobil Delvac 1 ESP. I have a series 60 Detroit with 580k on it now. I use no, I'll repeat that, no additional oil between changes. Change interval 50k, thinking about extending that out to 60-65k...test results look like it would not be a problem to do so...Using Donaldson Endurance oil filters.... there is no "mid service" in my maintenance schedule these days...I change my own oil.

Ensuring that the oil remains clean, and running a top shelf synthetic, is the best overhaul you'll never need...

Oh, and btw... Speedco oil analysis sucks. Their results are inaccurate....

My last UOA, Blackstone labs did the UOA, 20k on the oil, soot percentage less than 1%, which is exactly what I would expect seeing as how I'm running two sub-micron bypass filters, (Blackstone UOA), Speedco analysis would state 2.7 something around this test interval, and is why I no longer use them as I believe their test results are inaccurate....I was always wondering how it could be that I had such high soot levels using these filters..(yeah, let's not forget that they are an oil change business, not a testing laboratory, and that from their perspective they want you to change your oil, whereas a testing lab is concerned with nothing but providing you with accurate test data...) Plus Blackstone gives you a detailed analysis opinion, Speedco doesn't.

Anyway...

Two ways to approach the oil problem...

1. You can flush the sump (change the oil)

2. Filter the sump (clean the oil)

Both are effective if done properly, which one is the most economical option is up to each of us to determine for ourselves....

 

Three points, acidity, oxidation, and shearing.

1. acidity, when an oil becomes acidic it is a real problem. Oil will become acidic.

2. oxidation, oil that has oxidized starts breaking down into nasty stuff, varnish, ketones, sludge...

3. shearing, shearing is what happens to oil when it is subjected to tight tolerances between metals over time, think of sharp knives cutting the oil molecule chains

How long can the oil last??

Good question.

I agree with Cowpie1, it's up to each of us to discover for ourselves.

 

I dunno, but I'd guess the oil oxidized.....that jelly sounds like sludge.... jmo

 

Just want to make sure everyone knows this isn't directed at anyone in particular, just my own opinion of Speedco UOA.