Cant get clutch set

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by king Q, Feb 2, 2014.

  1. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    We acquired a used FLB 100 COE with a N14 Celect and 18 sp.
    Decided to change clutch as it was worn and needed a new clutch brake.
    Our mechanic cant get the clutch set properly.
    He says after stripping the box out for the 3rd time that the engine bell housing to face of flywheel is not correct.
    Does anyone have the measurement of what this should be?
     
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  3. luvtotruck

    luvtotruck Road Train Member

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    That is going to be a tough one, The old hands may not even know that one, I would check with a dealer or a Clutch specialist? These Clutch guys have specs for everything!
     
  4. Alaska76

    Alaska76 Road Train Member

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    Did he have the flywheel resurfaced? If so it could be that the flywheel is now too thin/out of spec which will set the clutch assembly too far away from the release bearing/maximum clutch fork travel, therefor, the pressure plate will not be able to fully release. Another possibility is that the clutch fork is worn, the pivot is worn, the linkage is worn. How good is your mechaninc? There is far more to a proper clutch repair than just putting in new disk, pressure plate and release bearing.

    Have him inspect all of the clutch related parts mentioned above. Have him mic the flywheel to be sure there is enough material there, that is what sets the distance for the clutch assembly in relation to the transmission, if the flywheel is beyond spec there might be a shim available to make up the difference.

    Another possibility is that the clutch disk is in backwards.
     
  5. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    Mechanic was at at Eaton with the fly wheel and they set the clutch up on it.They would not measure it apparently.I will be on them in the morning because that is BS.
     
  6. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    I do not know what box you are talking about?
    The spec for a clutch are 1/2 inch between the release bearing and the preasure plate, the clutch pedal should have 1 inch free play in a cab over and the brake should be 1 inch from the floor.
    I have removed the clutch lever on many cab over units and drilled it 1.5 inches lower down to get more effective travel. That really works well.
    When you do a clutch you must replace the worn cross shafts and the bushings, the release fork. and if the cover is worn that also, I always replace the input shaft, and grind the flywheel.
    I have never seen a cummins flywheel under spec but If you call Cummins they should be able to give you the spec.
    I machined old Cat head bolts from a 3406B for clutch cross shaft bushings.
    Just a thought!
     
  7. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    Yes it was resurfaced and this is what I was thinking but mechanic says otherwise.
    The problem is that there appeared to be to bigger distance between the release bearing and the clutch brake.He can get the clutch to release but about 3/8 is the closest the release bearing gets to the clutch brake.If we move the clutch fork manually far enough that the release bearing touches the clutch brake the back end of the clutch fork catches on the pressure plate because it is almost horizontal.
    This is all been inspected an good.
    He has not set one in 15 years but he used to do it okay back then so I am not sure.
    This is the reason I am wanting the specified distance from the bell housing to the flywheel face as I think this is the problem.
    Are you talking about the intermediate plate that goes between the two clutches ?
     
  8. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    We know this and even have machined spacers that we use as feelers to make sure we get this right.
    Did this but when we needed so much extra travel that the fork almost went horizontal before we got clutch brake pinch and then the rear of the fork fouled on the rotating pressure plate.
    All is good here.We don't try save money on repairs so I'm a bit confused.
    Will call them in the morning.
    Thanks , we have a machine shop so that wont be a problem but don't you think the head bolts are a bit hard and will eat in to the shaft?
     
  9. jameslawton

    jameslawton Light Load Member

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    Did you replace the input shaft the bearing housing for input shaft that the clutch brake uses to stop can wear down would mess up free travel and adjustment but to adjust clutch you have to have the 1/2 in gap set first you don't need any special tool to check that just use a 1/2 in extension to check then adjust free travel after that and on the clutch plate in wrong there are 2 plates one has sticker that says flywheel side and one says pressure plate side if they are in wrong it wont work
     
  10. king Q

    king Q Road Train Member

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    No , did not replace this.It looks good and measures the same as on a new one if measured from the face of the gear box bell housing to where the clutch brake contacts .
    I'm sure we got this right, that is why I am confused.
     
  11. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    From what I understood above he isn't doing it right. You push clutch in and turn adjustment on pressure plate till throwout bearing is 1/2 inch from clutch brake. If clutch is not released you can not turn adjustment on pressure plate. Once you get the 1/2 inch gap between throwout bearing and clutch brake with clutch engaged or pedal up set the free travel in your linkage to 1 inch free travel at the top.
     
    Cetane+ Thanks this.
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