The older the truck and running in the rust belt the greater the chance it will fight you. Most are a breeze and come off fairly easy. Worst of the worst is getting a frozen yoke off the splines. I have given up before after heating with a rosebud red hot with a puller and end up having the shaft rebuilt.
If I were you. Give it a shot. Have a back up driveline shop for a fallback to knock it out for you if you get stuck. Mark all yoke positions before disassembling so it all goes back together the exact same way.
Carrier Bearing
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by JonJon78, Nov 17, 2018.
Page 2 of 3
-
Dino soar, thaistick, spsauerland and 3 others Thank this.
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
I recently greased my Truck and found Maybe yolk splines were dry. I think I figured out the mystery noise that sometimes while almost asleep the air seeps out and the splines bind and slip making a huge noise like someone slamming into rear of trailer . Lol I’ve changed everything driveline and bushing air bags all were needed each time thought I had solved problem.Figured it out from Ford P/U and Chevy P/U owners having to remove and grease splines.We will see its greased good now I believe, I gave it over 20 pumps before running out of grease Lol . Have you ever heard of such a thing on a Big Truck?
JonJon78 and Dave_in_AZ Thank this. -
It's a 2014. But pertaining to the yoke marking can you explain that a little more? In the video I posted he says hes marking yoke position but didn't explain anything... I dont know what I'm marking? What am I marking it with? Marker or piece of chalk?Rideandrepair and Dave_in_AZ Thank this.
-
The yokes should remain in align. Especially the one behind the center bearing as it has infinite splines and can be put on any way. If not aligned it will become out of phase and you could have vibration issues. Rattle can or paint marker all pieces of the shaft before teardown. You should use something permanent that will not rub off during repairs. Be sure to align all your marks going back together. All straps and bolts, yoke nuts should be new and not reused.
Rideandrepair, JonJon78, Muddydog79 and 1 other person Thank this. -
Only problem i had was getting the yolk nut broke loose. Had to drop the drive shaft to get more leverage. Bearing came off and went on with ease. Fun part was getting the shaft back in by myself.
Rideandrepair, xsetra and JonJon78 Thank this. -
If you're going to do the carrier bearing you might as well do the u-joint as well.
Rideandrepair and JonJon78 Thank this. -
Looking at a video online, it appears you definitely need a press for that correct?Rideandrepair Thanks this.
-
Yeah. I just bought the bearing at Freightliner and had another shop do the labor. They had a hard time getting the bearing off the shaft, and the cups fell off of the u-joint when they took it apart. So I ended up buying a u-joint at the shop. It cost about double what it would have cost at Freightliner.JonJon78 Thanks this.
-
No need for press on mine.I didn’t properly torque u bolts and later 1 broke then I broke ez out, that’s when I took all apart had new yoke welded on driveshaft replaced all u joints strap bolts carrier and torqued proper . 3 yrs ago still all good.JonJon78 Thanks this.
-
Mine does the same thing, I always thought it was the airbags. Is your drive line sealed? Let me know if greasing the splines works
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 2 of 3