Caster (lack of):

That's a minor issue. You are right and it shouldn't do that, but that wear really isn't causing anything and it's a very slow progression. It's just because the springs are angled a bit and not perfectly perpendicular to the axle causing a bit of side thrust. This is very common with this design of suspension. As long as the alignment is close to zero, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Heavyd,
that is the alignment after replacing the bushings. My biggest question/concern when I found this was, are they moving under torque, because the wandering issues was either when it under torque it would pull right, then when on flat ground it would wander either way with few to no grooves even on brand new pavement and if any braking it would pull to the left. when we were going over speed humps it was a scary crap shoot as to which direction the truck wanted to go even at less than 5 mph. For a while I thought the axles were coming loose, but they never moved when checked. When going over the bumps we could hear a squeaking/screeching as well as feeling uneven movement. I’ll update later as to whether or not the issues still exist. I really hope it is fixed, because I’m at my wits end and I don’t know what else I can replace that would cause all this. Btw, in the last 1.5+ years I have replaced just about the whole front end trying to track this down. It never occurred to me that a rear end problem could cause a steering/drivability/stability issue. As always thank for your replies.

 

I looked over your printout.
Front axle camber is very typical, no adjustment possible anyway, but a good indicator your kingpins aren't worn or anything bent.
Caster, this is something you can increase if you find wandering is still an issue. If you are also experiencing a pull to the right, then higher caster on the right will help that. Right now, you only have about 0.3 degrees more caster on the right. I like to see close to one full degree.
Total toe is set a bit higher than what I do. I set mine between 0.06 and 0.09. 0.11 is ok, we're just splitting hairs.
Scrub and thrust are perfect.
The only thing I don't like there is that 0.4 camber on the left rear rear. Normally you see 0.00-0.02 with any machine, but 0.4 degrees is starting to get a bit sloppy and I wonder if maybe a sensor slipped a bit. If not, this means you have almost a 1/2 degree of something bent back there.

 

This is really an informative thread.

@Heavyd

I was wondering in your experience have you found that the common Freightliner Shake has anything to do with camber?

Specifically I'm referring to trucks that I've driven where the front end goes into a shake and the steering wheel itself shakes back and forth.

If it is not camber, have you encountered this situation and found a common reason for it?

 

That is 99% of the time an out of round or out of balance tire. I have several posts in other threads about tire balancing and how most times those shakes are corrected by centering the wheel properly on the hub. For best success, you need to start with a quality tire that hasn't worn irregular yet. Shakes, shimmies and vibrations are not caused by alignment issues, and alignments will never fix those problems either.

 

In those days you could depend on that wheel to come back to center.

That went away in the 90's It's a shame, twas useful once upon a time. BTW we did finish watching that series all over again. There was a scene in which the tractor trailer was horsed over pretty violently to the left to make the track entrance and that wheel came right back like it should. It's a good thing too.

One of my older cars had that feature built into the front end, factory or not I don't know. But it's really good to "Give it"room to come back straight on it's own before adding power. You couldnt do that with today's cars hardly.