Hey. I will get back to you if my memory functions. I am 99.99% sure that the ecm is at the shop with my boat anchor CAT. If by some chance you don’t hear from me speak up here and or send a pm or a text. I’ll put your number in my phone so I will recognize it. I ignore all unknown numbers.
CAT C15 /6NZ trouble continues
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I sincerely hope the Op finds a solution to his problem.
But this thread should be at the very top of somewhere to warn people about the dangers of electronic engines.
I love when guys tell me they have never had one single problem and electronic engines are the greatest thing ever.
This gentleman spent $23,000 and still is not at the bottom of it. And that doesn't include all the time that his truck has been down and the bills keep rolling in. I'm sure he's not alone.
$23,000 is a massive amount of money to spend chasing down some stupid unnecessary electrical problem. What a complete and total waste. What has this world come to? I guess I really am the
All the electronic stupidity is the biggest bs nonsense that could have ever happened to trucking. But the mechanical engine will just keep going and going and going and be reliable and easy on the pocketbook. You can even work on them all by yourself.
Don't believe me? Read the forums...shmuck359 Thanks this.
I pull heavy, 140,000 all day every day, but rarely throttle above 1500, which was one issue. Whenever i got up over 1500 ( 1550-1600, which is far and few between) the engine seemed to shake a touch and there wasnt much power benefit to be had. But now, i can throttle up to those numbers with no such issue's.
But, in regards to my rough running, the problem remains, unfortunately.
Relatively simple a engine, its got to be simple a fix, but to find it is the problem.
Single turbo, one ECM, no DPF no DEF, no regen, just a block with lubricated parts, 6 injectors , fuel and air supply and sensors monitoring .
Unbelieveable a problem.
18 months ago, before buying this truck, i drove it like i stole it, loaded trailer, 134,000 in tow, and all ran tip-top. CAT platinum warranty (still in effect) reman tranny, new paint, one new diff, frame was 90% spotless. How can a guy expect such a problem ?
I bought it and the prior owner drove it another 2 weeks while i sold my 1997 heavy spec 379 short nose, 16,000 front / 46,000 rears, 3406 / 5EK CAT.
This 2003 Pete was thereafter dropped off at a shop an hour from me, which is a family run shop in farm country Ontario, and familiar with the service records on this truck. They did a full service on it, installed a wet line (i run end dump) and sent the right fuel tank to Toronto to have it split internally (a wall inside, allowing 80 gallons hydraulic oil and still 30 gallons fuel on the other side of that wall) They installed it, repaired a fuel pump electrical connection to the Wabasto sucking from that tank/ mounted above that passenger side tank, and i picked it up when it was done.
From the first day i pulled a trailer with this truck ive had this problem.
I installed new fuel lines one Saturday, no change. I then ran the truck off the drivers side tank only, the next day changed all return & supply lines to suck/return fuel from the passenger side tank. Then i built a stratoflex (fuel line) hose, sticking one end inside the drivers side tank filler neck, rags holding it in with tie wire etc and the other end directly to the primary fuel filter housing. No change. Then, new fuel pump went on, then a fuel pressure regulator, throttle positioning sensor (under pedal) then every sensor (cam, crank, fuel temp, atmospheric, boost, air intake) but still no change. Then new engine wiring harness, then injector harness, new primary fuel filter head, new divertor valve (returning fuel to tanks, under bunk) then divider valve (fuel supply to engine divider, side by side with the divertor valve) then dropped both tanks to inspect blockage in fuel suction tubes, and check for any cracking in those tubes, at top where they connect to fuel tank, and check fuel return lines into tanks, all good. Then, remove entire exhaust system to check for free flow, all clean, all as should be. Next, replace all batteries (one was very bad, another at 60%, changed all 4) Then, run a dedicated / new power line to the ECM from batteries, check all power lines exiting and inside the battery box and behind battery box.
CAT (Concord Ontario, head office/ main shop for on-road, heavy machinery, etc) had the truck for a day, changed 1 injector, 2 months later they changed a 2nd injector ( they flipped a coin, no real reason, but they felt / heard and experienced my problem as we went up and down the highway and the tech did numerous cut-out tests etc but "couldnt put his finger on it". I next went to CAT Stoney Creek Ont (closer to my house) and they also did cut out tests to injectors as we drove, then cut out 5 of 6 injectors at a stand still, they did this to each injector, running the engine on only 1 at a time. They couldnt figure it out, but said "are you sure its not in your clutch" (you got to be kidding, i said) Engine sputters and shakes, power is low and he (all of 22 yrs old, minimal experience) told his supervisor "i think its in the clutch". So, i pulled tranny completely, sent tranny to tranny rebuilders who said my tranny was perfect inside (he disasembled it completely) it was re-installed with a brand new clutch (the other clutch was nearly new, pads were unscuffed, it was only a year old, as was tranny). Then, after #2 exhaust port on manifold kept blowing out, CAT installed a new manifold , sealed it up (they did this 3 times, 3 seperate occasions)
Then, i disassembled the 120 amp fuse inside the left frame rail beside left steer tire, cleaned it up and put it back together ( a one hr job) as, im told, it is another 12 volt feed to the ECM.
Then, the shop (previously mentioned) checked all OEM wires from the ECM going to the throttle position sensor, speed sensor and so on, building the twisted pair wire to go from speed sensor to the ECM (CAT cut out a 8" damaged/burnt section last year during one of my numerous visits, replacing it with a straight (not twisted) pair of wires (which was just replaced with the twisted pair this past weekend)
And to date, im no further ahead.
Its down to; A) Engine internal component(s) or B) ECM or C) A circuit undiscovered which is compromised. Or D) Timing set ? E) Something only a very dedicated, very intrigued technician with skill and experience will figure out. Its that person i now seek.
But i must say, ive been in receipt of support and information from guys on this site who have been really kind, really supportive and very helpful. For that i am grateful, very grateful.
But i better pack it in, its late (or early) and tomorrow is another stumbling /popping / power drop day in the mystery truck.
Thanks again to all who continue to support me. I cant thank you enough.
Have a good night.
Have the static timing adjusted so its on the advanced side of the spectrum which is 1.5°+- befor or after the marks wich can be done with backlash adjustment and experience with the procedure then recalibrate the timing with the cat probe and all that and you wont beleive it...would bet money its in the 1.5° retarded side of the spectrum and program is new and has newest retarded timing the two combined =timing so retarded that it will make #2 and #5 (i think) dragg ### in it resulting in your stutter wich is a timed miss...good luck.
Cat always puts latest slow timed flash file with opt overhaul. I think OP is wanting to not void warranty, but the warranty hasn't proved to be money well spent yet. I have seen flash files fix temp issues, not missing, stuttering, bucking, but maybe someone else has.
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